Peter_Puget

Crack Babies is way easier than the 11c just to the left. The 11 isnt over rated.

I never thought I'd be so sick to my stomach watching a baseball game.

link

HAPPY FELIX DAY!

Keep it clean here in the BASEBALL FORUM!

Branyan signed the cap!

Only two hours to the Home Run Derby! It was to turn on the Futures Game after driving home from the game yesterday.

Yes! The Ms are ready to rule the second half! Scored Josh Hamilton's signature! Hanahan signed his A's card and then Lopez threw my hat into the dugout just before the game...got it back loaded with signatures! Prediction: Ms win all the remaining series with the Angels and move into post season play!

The biggest problem with chain anchors in WA is the extensive use of the incredibly fucked up chain/washer anchor system. Just say NO!

Help me!

Stop ignoring the elephant in the room! What this site needs is a BASEBALL FORUM!

Yikes Minx now I am having a stroke.... Billcoe - That looks like a scene from the excellent movie Tokyo Gore Police but I am pretty sure it's not what we are talking about. Peter

Tighten up Minx........you're gonna give K a stroke.

I am so unsafe I have never used any fill-in-the-blank-o-lettes at all. Off were you building anchors or clipping bolts? The first wave of o-lette madness seemed to overstate their advantages to me. Hasn't Long revamped the whole process in later editions of his anchor book? Extra tied runners seems enough to me.

Jeesh I go away for a day and all my threads have drifted away from Baseball!

I have both and no wife around so in fact they are the reason this TR wasn't a top secret climbing TR.

Ya here are some of the I am talking about faux trads climbs no one ever climbs: Rostrom, Half Dome Regular Route, West Face El Cap, Nabisco Wall Routes, Lunatic Fringe, Tales of Power. Rudy -I am not gripping about ratings as much as wondering why people don't think sport climbing is gernerally harder than trad.

Isn’t Jim claiming that for competent climbers trad and sport grades should be equivalent and yet they are not? He gives several examples of locations he claims have grading disparities to support this. If this discrepancy was only due to sport climbers not being proficient in gear placement then climbers like Jim would not experience it at all yet he does. Presumably the same learning curve for placing gear would be in effect in Spain and yet Tim brings up the fact that sport and trad ratings in Spain are more or less comparable unlike here in the States. Sports climbs aren’t new. Here are several examples of old time sport routes with comparable ratings: Sonic Reducer (1982), Explosive Energy Child ( 1976) P1 Athletess Feat ( (1964) . Three different decades; three different numerical ratings. Honeslty I can’t remember if EEC needs a piece or two but if it does I’d just throw in another example. I agree that the “gear placement factor” does play some role but that role is often indeterminate. For example I would expect that places with plug and go gear would have more difficult ratings than trad areas with comparable more difficulties in placing gear. Looking around for locations to test this theory I can only find counter examples: Indian Creek has great pro and yet relatively soft ratings. Fat and out of shape I’d jump on an Indian Creek .13 hand crack w/o worries yet I’d be nervous jumping Darkness At Noon. It seems that at least as often as the fixed gear on sport routes makes a climb easier it can make a climb more difficult. (1) Rarely on trad crack climbs are there mandatory runouts. (2) a manky trad piece can often be backed up with a few more pieces not so with a bad sport bolt. (3) Usually while trad climbing you don’t have to worry about clipping/placing a piece beyond your reach. (4) Get gripped above your piece on a trad climb…just place another and hang.

I watched the young guys on Saturday! NW Little League finals: The game between Roth's Legal Eagle Messenger Service and Broderick Architects was awesome! Baseball is never boring even when it's softball!

Because you never return my calls...a guy can only take so much rejection...even as a boy it was obvious: baseball will never forsake you. Go Mariners!

With the M's out of town I was bummed as the weekend approached. Aquasox haven't started their season yet and the Rainiers were out of town. Saturday was spent watching the NW Little League finals (major & minors) Sunday I was compelled to attend two simultaneous soccer matches. As I walked back and forth to each of the games I noticed a real game being played. The Bees v Ospreys! Turns out it was Puget Sound Senior League Baseball! Fun game! These guys rock! Check 'em out!

He's right that in general sport should equal trad. I think where it might not sport should be > than trad because of limited placement opportunities.

Not even close to splitting hairs.

Ya but rock climbing sure isn't mountain climbing.