Peter_Puget

I guess you are agreeing with me and I with you!

The Safety Dance post got me thinking about all the great new remastered CDs available now. I was listening to the newly remastered edition of John Cage's 4'33" this weekend, on the headphones of course, and I noticed for the first time a subtle shift in the emotional intensity of the performance, about a minute into the second movement. There's an obvious pathos there that I just had never heard before. This prompted me to pull out both the first cd edition as well as my well-worn vinyl copy, and I can't pick it up on either of these. I'm thinking the remastered edition actually contains a different performance than the original vinyl. Also, by my cd player, the remastered version clocks in at 4'34". Has anyone else noticed this?

Moses, the prophet of freedom, was afflicted with a stammer, and the prophet Muhammad was an illiterate. Neither of them would have had a chance on most of today's television talk shows, yet they moved the world.

One thing about a guide on CD is that if the CD gets damaged you no longer have a guide. So make a copy and store the original away somewhere! Not that I write from experience or anything. I think besides mail order it was available at PMS in the U District.

So Bob What routes?

Hey Bob what routes?

Matt has chosen some good options. To them I would ad that in the roof area to the left of Boredwalk are a couple of other fun routes. (.10a, .9)Still further left is the Magic Bus 5.8 and just to its left is another 5.8 (I haven't climbed this one) still to the left is another short bolted pitch. (5.8) These are all fun knob climbs and are easy to squeeze in at the end of the day. Big Tree 1 is a great climb however Matt doesn't show my favorite variation. Variation: From the top of the first pitch move right and then up to a LFC. Climb the LFC unitl it is possible to traverse left to BT1. There is a super exposed traverse crack which is really fun. This climb is atypical for Darrington because it is primarily a crack route until the top of the second pitch. PP

What does wankass mean? What do you like?

I have the 38 guide and the 32 one sounds like it is structured the same way. I agree the flipping back and forth to get info on a climb is a pain. The map and approach info is quite good – I have never become lost on the way to finding one of the new crags and the photos make route identification a snap. Overall I think the 38 guide is pretty good and can’t wait to get my hands on the 32 guide. PP

you forgot .. D Catching the Kerry lie machine in action!

Don't you mean Taxes, Lies and Heinz Imagine my surprise when I discovered that Senator Kerry's campaign cites me -- "conservative economist Kevin Hassett" -- as an "expert" in support of its plan to change the U.S. corporate tax code. Had the Democratic presidential candidate immersed himself in my often tedious writings on corporate taxation and seen the light? About time! Alas, it was not to be. Kerry doesn't get it. In fact, his proposal makes a bad system even worse for most U.S. multinational corporations. But the story does not end there. He also shamelessly included a loophole that is designed to give billions of dollars in tax breaks to the few companies -- including HJ Heinz Co. (as in Teresa Heinz, his wife) -- that are organized in a particular way PP

Hmmm I own at least 22 Friends.....

Link

I have two 32 guides right now I guess I'll have to buy 2 more! I am kind of a guidebook junky.

I have purchased 4 different guides to Smith over the years plus at least half dozen photocopied updates/guides. When will the madness end?

What's it like?

Anyone seen the new Si guide? I heard it was out but it isn't at the VW or REI.

That thread was about alot more than sandbagging!

The print out of that guide has almost been a marriage buster for me as I am constantly leaving it on the bathroom floor. After spending a winter reading and dreaming I am still finding little things hidden in the artistic flourishes. The ornamentation doesn’t interfere with the utility of the topos at all and give it a style and character a cut above standard topos. Reasons to buy the guide: 1 Best topos of the area. 2 Most up to date info regarding fixed protection condition. 3 Best approach info. If you just want to test out the area, check out Mattp Darrington site. PP

30 years for me and I have almost zero natural ability but I still think rock climbing can be fun as all get out.

I think that when compared to the past more climbers with natural athletic ability are being introduced/participating to the sport. This is a huge change.

I have no idea. I would say that what I meant to suggest is that performance is a relative concept. Perhaps climbing certain 5.12 trad today given the changed enviroment is no different than leading a some .9 in the 60s. Trad can be easier or harder than a bolt protected climb. For example Phoenix in Yosemite requires less commitment than many sport climbs.

I think in many ways the quality of the climbing experience has changed. Socially it is easier to get information and hear about what others are doing. Gear wise tremendous changes in protection and shoes have dramatically changed the sport. These are both the result of and cause of increases in the number of people climbing. By centering the discussion around “performance” without regard to the whole picture divorces the discussion from reality. Take a rack of hexes and lead Twilight Zone and then take a rack of TCS and lead Tips. Then discuss performance. Or take a pair of shoes with sticky rubber and lead A Question of Balance and then put on a pair of EBs or PAs climb it again and compare performance. Heck try EBs on any of the Static Point routes. This site is not really an RC oriented site and does not reflect the true nature of WA climbing. I was at Smith a few weeks ago and witnessed a couple Seattle area women flashing hard .11 on lead (both placing gear and bolt protected). Seattle area men climbing 5.12 and 5.13 bolted routes. None of these people post here on cc.com. They are also very nice non-bragging types.

The crux may come low ( one move kinda thing) but turning the roof seemed hard to me too. IIRC there is a jug that is hard to find. I got beta (to the left to the left) yelled up at me as I was reaching around.