Ziff

I have not looked at the guide since I bought it. no time this summer for anything but renovations. thanks for the correction, Don.

I had planned a trip into there 6 years ago to attempt this route but my partner bailed on me. When I was doing research on the route, I was told (I forget by whom, but he was a fellow guide) that Jim Haberl and Keith Reid had climbed the Risse route. Rumours?

there is passage that can be described as a trail, but easier to find going up.

after reading Josh's TR about his and Wayne's trip, I wonder how "easy" the approach really was for my friends. Will have to wait for more details, as what I got came from a cell phone call while they were on the summit of Challenger last week and now they are on Formidable.

Having approached via Hannegan/Perfect Pass twice, and exiting via Wiley/Eiley twice, and in and out Access creek once, I would vote for accessing the northern Pickets via Hannegan and exiting via Access (unless you just climb in the Challenger cirque). Wiley/Eiley is pretty long and nasty but quite pretty (I won't go do it a third time, however). Friends of mine just did a 7 day traverse entering via Little Beaver/Whatcom Pass and out Access creek (I was supposed to be there but house renos took away my annual (almost true) picket trip). They climbed Whatcom, Challenger, Luna and Fury along the way. They said getting around Whatcom was pretty easy. They were at perfect pass in an easy 1 1/2 days from the boat drop off (1/2 day of trail walking - 12 miles to camp before whatcom pass - and then an easy day getting up the pass and then around Whatcom. They had planned on the north ridge, but they were getting hammered by the snow and rain. So if you want to avoid a long car shuttle and don't mind a boat ride in, Whatcom sounds good as the access point for the Northern Pickets. With a 8:00 am boat ride and a light pack, one can be at Luna Pass in a day from the boat launch via Access creek, although it is a long day. You can also exit from Luna pass in a day without a boat ride. Makes a 3 day Fury/Luna trip possible.

By "shortened" I meant going down Fitzsimmons Creek and climbing back up the Overlord Shoulder. As well, descending Singing Pass as opposed to going over the Musical Bumps on the way out. I do know one guy who did the spearhead in a day without lifts from vancouver. Left Vancouver at 3:00am, skinning up Blackcomb by 5:00 am, around Fissile and out singing pass by 9:00pm. Home in Vancouver by 11:30pm. He said it was a long day! No doubt.

yes, it is Keith, but so far he has not done it 3 times in one day. The fast times are for the shortened version and out singing pass, not the full traverse. Not that it matters, he is still moving fast!

another vote for the genie. I added foam, chest strap, and compression straps and it still comes in at 20oz.

If you call up or email Cold Cold World, they will custom fit the pack to your size (most of their packs are made to order). Did it for me at no extra cost.

sorry Paul. I misread your original post. my mistake.

I have to disagree with Paul B regarding the route over Decker saving time. Traversing low and cutting hard right at the bottom of the gulley (as Fern mentions) has always worked best for me. I have done both routes at least three times each and I have always found the low route faster by about 30 minutes (even faster if you leave your skins on). Depending on conditions (wind scouring, cornices), the ridge leading off of Decker's summit can prove to be awful and very time consuming. Going over Decker is more aesthetic, however.

Be careful. I have been there twice and both times there was snow in the "gorge". However, after closer inspection, it was really a snowbridge spanning the gorge and hollow underneath. Looked great from above but I am glad we did not cross it as we probably would have broken through.

I would agree with the early summer comment. I did it in early July after the big snowfall year of 99/00 and was amazed at how easy the aproach was. Easy snow the entire way from the big beaver trail in the valley.

Dru, about the direct start, it is not recommended. I tried in a week before you found your booty with Buda a few years back. we did the first pitch which is nice, but the next pitch is gross and we bailed and did the bypass, after having wasted much time. Friends of mine completed the direct start two weeks after I was there and they do not recommend it. They said the second pitch was hard (5.10ish) and no pro. They did not follow the "5.8 magic carpet ride" pitch because they could not comprehend how to climb it. Anybody else been there?

Am I right in assuming you mean the NE buttress route on Slesse? If you climb in between the Beckey Ramps and the 5.10 crux section, it stays around 5.7 with no grass and no need to chew the cud! After a long pitch, you will cut back into the Beckey ramps and follow the deep gulley that leads you to the base of the 5.8+ layback pitch below the large bivi ledge. Pro is satisfactory but not great. [This message has been edited by Ziff (edited 05-14-2001).]

I would recommend coming in from Access for the North Butt of Fury (not as bad as it sounds - the 11 miles of trail is far worse than the bushwack!) and camping at the high col and doing a round trip in one day from there. Doable in four days round trip from the road (with a boat ride) if the weather cooperates.