Lambone

ha ha

thx yeah well don't get too exited. It's been 2 years and I'm alot less pissed off these days...

not anymore

sort of, but I wouldn't quite call the top piece an anchor. It is prehaps one of the only pitches I've seen that goes downward for about 75 ft, very hard to clean. the point above the anchor that failed was a fixed lost arrow piton that broke directly in half. It was a pendulum point to the anchor. I had the line fixed to one bolts with a clove and backed up with an 8 to the powerpoint. Not to smart I know... we beat the clove for a while with a hammer, but no go. gald we had a knife!

The crazy part is that when my partner factor 2d on the anchor, he was actually cleaning a pitch. figure that one out! he was attached to the rope with a gri-gri and luckily not his jugs. Werner from supertaco warned me never to clip a clove to a piece when solo-aiding because ropes have chopped when the biner smashed the rock during a fall. Werner's seen some shit, so I'll take his word for it. On a related topic, I once had Euros simo past me on Nutcracker clipping quickdraws into my cams! those fuckers...

If you are looking for info on Southern Oregon or have info to share, check this out: Rogue Area Forum Not much traffic, mostly we just get alot of Spammers. But the author of the SW Oregon guide books posts often.

If you are looking for info on Southern oregon or have info to share, check this out: Rogue Area Forum Not much traffic, mostly we just get alot of Spammers. But the author of the SW Oregon guide books posts often.

My buddy took a factor 2 onto a clove and that shit got welded, had to cut the rope.

sorry Kurt. Hey, glad you are still alive anyway, hope you are feeling somewhat back to normal! Matt

our web page Raffel Prizes include: -Mad Rock Boulder Pad -Monster Rope 60m -Bufo V-Machines ...and lots of other stuff. FREE BEER afterward and during the Reel Rock Tour Show.

oh, trust me...I have, thank you.

Jeeze guys, A lot of theoretical and unwritten rules being thrown around in this thread... But there is one real world rule that is written down and enforced. No Power Drills in Wilderness areas. Let's not forget that rule... Nice discussion, glad to still it's still moving along, minus a few important voices...

Jeeze guys...I was reading through this Mr. Lambone's posts Labone's recent posts and it looks like the last mean or insulting thing he posted was on 9/16. And nothing really before that, it was all on that day in the "Free Advice" thread....jeeze MAYBE he just had a bad day at work or something and took it out on moderators because he felt insulted by them first? Then he is banned on 9/24...because of what looks like something that someone else said to someone else. How strange is that! How do these moderators work anyway? Lambone is cool in my book.

Ray, just be sure to remove them properly, and fill the holes...

what is your point Dru?

Poll

how about Rock Climbing forum. Seems pretty relavent there. thanks for not at least sending it to the garbage can, it toook me a while to type those posts and express myself without calling Crackbolter a stupid fucking asshole.

Dear Crackbolter... I agree that fun routes that make you happy are a good thing, i'm not arguing with you on that front.....a big "LIKE, DUH!" right there...I really hope you have some better justification then that. I would argure that my ethics are not as pure as a "dryfly" fisherman. I like sport climbing, I like good solid bolts...I don't object to bolts drilled on Rappel as long as they are well thought out and placed with discression. However, I draw the line when it comes to a few topics- 1. Retrobolting a route that is not in accordince with the orginal style and character of the route. Including additional holes not included on the FA, as well as using comparable equipment as the FA. By this I mean, rivets should replce rivets...not fat 3/8 SS w hangers. I'm not saying old leeper hangers should be replaced with the same thing. 2. I feel climbers are obliged to repect the rules and laws set forth by the according land management agency or land owner. For reasons that are obvious to me, yet apparently not so obvious or important to other people. Infinite Bliss breaks my second example, pretty blatently. by argeeing with the style in which it was put up you are saying it is ok to bolt with power drills in the wilderness. That's fine, just call a duck a duck. Appearently since I'm not some famous big name climber or leader in the PNW climbing community, in your eyes this makes my voice as worthless as "spew." This is too bad, cause I think alot of regular no name guys who post on this web site have alot of important things to say. Yeah, I'm just joe average climber, never done anything exceptional, probly will wallow in mediorocrity for the rest of my climbing days. But I will always beleive in certain ethics, including tradtional climbing ethics, and wilderness ethics. And I will never be afraid to voice my opinion...to anyone. People who plan to go climb this route should at least know the whole story behind it so thay can make an educated decision on whether or not they want to support this current trend in the climbing culture.

ditto...disgrace to the route and the first ascensionist. Pisses me off even more considering I spent a bunch of money on equipment and hardware and was gearing up to go replace as many of the bad rivets as I could with rivets (as opposed to 3/8" SS W/hangers)...on lead...and a month before we go Sloan retro's the thing on rappel. doesn't even bother to remove the old bolts and/or try and re-use the holes. The Trip is now officaly a sport wall.

hahah Crackbolter....! I don't doubt that it is or has been the hot topic at Feathered Friends. You think that is going to change my opinion about it? Since you say "shops" what does Jim Nelson think about it? I have a hard time believing he is at his shop talking about what a "worthwhile" route it is. as long as it keeps coming up on this web site I will keep highlighting the fact that the route is illegal and a disgrace to the climbing community. You got a problem with that you can come on over and lick my lily white ass, bring this Leland guy with you. How can you honestly be proud of a route that sets the standard for long sport climbs that was put up illegaly on rappel. So you think that if a route is worthwhile it is ok to break laws enforced by land managers? Wow, that is an interesting position to take. I just don't ge it I guess....oh well.

Yes, it made me laugh.

I'm not recomending anything other then Power Drilled bolts be chopped. If you wanna redo them with a hand drill...go ahead. I didn't say i was going to chop them, but i would smile if they were chopped. I was told through this web site at some point a few months back that they were power drilled. Are you saying they were hand drilled? I find it hard to believe that a 23 pitch sport climb with 3/8" bolts in Granite was drilled by hand. Doesn't the guy who put the route up post here? If he did it by hand why doesn't he come out and say so? It would be something to brag about....on rappel or not.

yes, or perhaps they are just obligated to enforce the law which states no motorized power use in a designated Wilderness area. If the bolts had been placed with a hand drill there would be no issue. They are apparently also upset about the trail that was illegaly built to access the climb. This route and other routes like it across the country put our (the climbing communities) relationship with land managers, and ultimately our future acces at risk. How does this make you feel? Was putting up this route in the manner it was done a public service, or a selfish act? This route is a blatant violation of well know and for the most part well respected Wilderness policies. By climbing it you indirectly support this action. The route deserves to be erased. Which I hope will recieve as much attention (ie. publication in the mags) as the creation of the route.

vroom, vroom = chop, chop

lummox...you dumb ass. Winter Dance is a Hyalite Test piece put up by Lowe in the late 90's ('97?). The falls dominate the view upon entering the canyon. Maybe it is a "homo" name, but it's an amazing piece of ice. where do you get the nerve to diss on a guy like Joe? NICE Jojo...I assume it will be at least twice as nice as Ron's book...+ Cody! Right on.