K_Y_L_E

Hey, anyone have any beta on Glacier Peak. Especially curious about the approach and road conditions. Thanks K

Found a Crampon on Rainier this last weekend. Gimme a hollar and let me know the route/day/location lost/type of crampon/square root of 7,345,812 and I will get it back to you!

I used to have the Arc'teryx minuteman SL it was a sweet jacket. Nice thing was the stowable hood. the length was perfect and it was very light. MEC has some very nice shells. I think they are comparable to Arc'teryx. I have the zenith (26oz, less if the hood is taken off, even less if you cut the arms off!)a little heavier but it does it all. So yeah....not sure what my point was.....its not light, nevermind

I have a Primus Alpine Power Cook (14,500 BTU). Yeah I know it is not the best, esp for cold, but I used it last weekend on the muir snowfield and it workded great with the primus power gas (isobutane, butane, propane mix). The thing I like is that it has a huge surface area for pots. I am using the hard anodized double boiler from GSI. So there is about 2 inches of extra space all around the pot when it is on the stove. I bought the MSR heavy foil windscreen, taped it into a circle bigger than the pot but smaller than the stove arms. Then I cut 4 slits (one for each arm) in the circle about 2-3 inches deep. This allows me to set the windscreen securely on the stove. It worked awesome as a wind screen and also acted like a heat exchanger, It also diverted just enough heat down to keep the fuel canister from freezing. I was boiling 2-3x faster than my buddy that had a MSR pocket rocket. The bst part is that it folds flat, weighs nothing, and is the size of a cd case. I use the extra round piece to block the wind completely on one side if needed. But I am going to rig it so that it fits on the supports and sits closer to the burner for a better screen in really windy conditions. Patent pending!! Patent Pending!!!!

My prayers are with all those involved, especially Peter's family and friends. Scott and the rescue team should hold their heads high. They did all that the mountain would allow. This is a loss to not only Peter's immediate family but to our climbing family. Be safe out there and remember: you watch my back, I will watch yours. peter

It was pretty messy up there on saturday. Raining a bit until 6500k or so. not too windy but you could not see from one marker to the next. Despite hearing it was clear but cold and windy at muir, we stopped at about 8200 because a novice climber was feeling ill. It cleared up about 8:30 pm sat night, But snowed about 2 inches that night. Clear skies from 7k up on sunday until about noon or 1pm, then clouds rolled up from the south east and it started to snow again. While we were up there (Muir snow field) at approx 9:30am sunday we saw a chinook helicopter circle paradise 3-4 times at an elevation of 9k or so (could damn near see the pilots face). There were a few avalanches on the Nisqually in the late morning/early afternoon on sunday but no sign of trouble otherwise. Thats why I am a little confused. How could the chopper not get there if the weather was clear all sunday morning from 7000-7500k up?? wind? My prayers are with them. God speed to the rescue team.

I like to have a few steri-strips (thin sterile sticky tape used like stitches), a small mirror, some foam, second skin (absolute best for blisters), and a hypodermic needle (for draining blisters). Mastesol is a nice alternative to superglue if you can find it. I use it when applying bandaids etc so that they dont sweat off (very strong but not as evil as superglue) I also carry a bit of Thermoplast in my pack. With a little hot water this sheet of hard plastic can be cut and molded to any shape which can be useful for custom splints (way easier that carving a branch), repairing gear, heck you could make your own superfeet. I am going to fabricate an extension for my plastics so that I can snowboard without getting a nasty "shark bite" on my calf from the binding. The nice thing is that it is completely reusable, just heat it up and reshape it. One day it is an insole, the next a holder for a coffee filter. Nobody likes my coffee...why? Another really cool thing I have is a tiny packet of what looks like dirt. if you get a cut or get bit by a monkey you dump this crap on your wound and it instantly stops bleeding and forms a "scab". Only downside is it hurts like hell. but so does getting attacked by rabid glacier monkeys. by the way all of the above items only weigh a few ounces all together.

I have a Dakine Poacher backcountry pack. It is pretty sweet. It has a stowable sleeve that would be pretty easy to replicate. Sew a nylon pouch (obviously a bit bigger that your bladder) and leave about 2" extra at the opening (top). Put some velcro along the top so you can close the sleeve. But before you sew on the velcro put a piece of webbing under the velcro (on 1 side in the middle...which will end up being the back of the sleeve) and leave a 1-1.5" tab of webbing sticking out the top back side of the sleeve. Sew the velcro and webbing to the sleeve. Now sew the webbing tab to the inside of your pack (Back/top). If you get fancy you can create the stow strap for the sleeve at the top of the pack. that way if you do not use a bladder you can roll & stow it. The nice thing about this is it requires minimal sewing of the pack itself ans should be prety strong. If that is cofusing, which...well it is. check out a dakine pack at a store. If you cant find one or dont get it PM me. Good luck. Oh and Pacific Fabrics in SoDo (on 4th I think) has good fabric for cheap.

Like Mad Dog 20/20 right Bug? No that will be good. I have a little 12oz bottle of chardonnay. If she makes it to Muir we can celebrate. If not.......I can chug it and then let her hit me over the head with the empty bottle . Everybody wins!! And yeah ChucK I have a feeling my pack just gained 15 pounds. Oh well, eh?

Good advice! Naw, She really wants to go, she is just a bit nervous despite reassurances. But I will definitely keep an eye on the weather. Bad weather + newbie = GF. And we all remember the mathematical rule that GF = man. We dont want that. Besides if she does not have fun I will need to learn to solo. hmmmm........guess that statement could have double meaning

Yeah that is a given. I am anxious to try out my Kelty Ledge (under 5 lbs). Anyone used it? http://www.thetentstore.com/kelty_ledge_02_tents.htm. If she does not come I may bivy though (save a little weight for the descent).

Alright Here's the deal, I am planning an overnight trip to muir this weekend with a crowd of friends. Most of whom have vast or moderate climbing experience. The most experienced is a "High Pointer" the least experienced have been to base camp at Baker and Shuksan. Well...correction the least experienced would be my Girlfriend who has been running stairs with me and has only a few easy hikes under her belt. she has never hiked with a pack but is in pretty good shape. She is pretty nervous (but determined too), and has been reassured by others in the group that she will be fine. I have been up to 10k or so on Baker and summited Shuksan but have never been to Muir. She is looking to me to tell her if she should go. Does anyone have experiences taking newbies up to Muir? What is the route like is is doable for a newbie? She has the gear. My biggest fear is that she will hate it and never do it again. Next would be that I would have to turn back with her and miss out on boarding/AT (havnt decided yet) the snowfield. Any beta? Reassurances? Warnings? thanks boys...and girls

At a whoping 345 feet I am not sure that the fine folks of Florida need a whole lot of gear to climb Britton Hill (Floridas largest mountain). Kidding. Sorry could not resist. Scary to think that the states highest point is lower that I am right now in my office in Seattle. Good luck in the hunt!

Isn't that what this forum is for? It may not be necessary to slam the business i.e "REI SUCKS" thread (ps get over it) but info on your experience may be useful to others, just as positive feedback is.

Oh God.....please tell me that "horsecock" is climbing slang for some sort of a hand-hold! If not I am a little scared and need someone to hold me...BUT not Dru.( I think he may have some issues...shhhhh...dont provoke him)

That wool does not look so smart to me.

Some people actually have allergic reactions to certain dyes or certain materials that make their feet sweat and stink. I actually have this problem, but mine is with dress socks, Synthetic dyed socks make my feet sweat and my sockes smell like ass .....welll that and I ran out of toilet paper. I have better luck with wool or cotton. So best advice is to use what works best for you. For instance now I wear my mountaineering socks to work. SEXY!!!! So now you know, and knowing is half the battle.

Checked out a few other sites and it says that they offer 100% UV protection, no breakdown or light transmission #'s though. Here is one of the sites (cheapest btw) http://clinchmountainoutfitters.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/952_842/products_id/51281?osCsid=088b289f7fb16c510c32802990c5ec4b

You got me, I did use a translator, I appologize. And I am sorry about the spelling, I was just too excited about getting a Fusion for $12 to pay any attention. I dont really climb but it makes great wall art for less than the price of a framed print. Just kidding, Thanks for the advice all. I think I will hang on to the Pulsar and OP. The Fusion although pretty bitchin', just means that I would have to add another sport to my already full list of activities. (That and I do not want to fork out the $$$$$ for another one to match.) One last question though, with regards to ice climbing ..of what use is a tube pick? Thanks again, Take care and happy climbing Kyle

Merci beaucoup ! J'apprécie votre aide avec cette question. Je dois aller maintenant. Mon chien a le sexe avec ma jambe de neihgbors.

is that like climbing jive talk or something? Cuz I am down with it, whatever you said.

I know...sad huh? I am an ultra gear whore, and am always looking for deals of sweet gear. I picked up the Fusion (lightly used) for $12 (Twelve Dollars). For that price....what the hell! I am just trying to decide if I should get rid of some of my excess. But I love cool S^, even if I dont use it! I have problems.

Hey I was wondering if anyone had an opinion about 2nd tool choices. I have 4 axes. One 80cm trango ultralight mountain axe, one 40cm Omega Pacific Bulldog with recurved pick, one 45-50cm Charlet Moser Pulsar with set-up for adze or hammer and waterfall/traditional/ or tube pick, and lastly one Black Diamond Fusion Leashless. The reason I want a 2nd tool is for climbs like Shuksan where I ended up having to front point the pyramid top with only my 80cm Trango. Which of the thre smaller tools would be the best to take on a climb such as that? and also is the Black Diamond Fusion a bit too "hard-core" if I decide to start some ice climbing? I appreciate the advice.....unless it sucks.

If you are not set on having a single wall tent you may want to look at The North Face Mountain 25. It is a bomber 4 season double wall. Tons of air flow, lots of room inside, two vestibules, two doors, pretty easy to set up once you try it out a few times. Only downside is it weighs 9 pounds. I also have a Kelty Ledge, which I have not used yet, but it seems pretty sweet. It is a little tight for 2 people and gear but it weighs just over 4 pounds. Which is nice for a 4 season.