bigwallben

K-money, dude, it is sooooo sunny and nice here in California. The rock is like gold.

Newest Industry. 11a...

Spent Monday, Tuesday, and Wed. at the Lower Wall. Sorry, no sign of them. Ben

Amen. Herr soulreaper.

Personally, it disgusts me that I can lower off of four different anchors while climbing Full Sagitarrius (with a 70 of course, the ltw rope of choice). Yes, these anchors have been there forever...but just because anchors have been there 'forever'...does it justify them to remain in perpetuity? Anachronistic anchors of bigone eras should carefully be removed to reduce visual clutter and keep Index clean. Regarding the Jap short anchor: I'm also personally glad that someone took it. Japanese gardens is a great portal to so much climbing higher on the cliff, in addition to tpmv free and stern farmer which start there. I can remember my first time to the ltw in 95 when this short anchor in the flake did not exist. I believe that this anchor is an eyesore and out of character with this particular traditional line. Moreover, it wouldn't bother me not to see huge parties spending their entire day toproping here.

Yes, the world has jaded me. That said, I do like to lay on the sarcasm sometimes. World wall today rudy. Carpe Diem. Ben

Index can become just like a bit of Spanish Limestone! More bolts means less of those pesky widgets to dick into the rock and take up backpack space. Let's castrate ltw with what the masses really want...convenience!

I concur, Klaus is definitely clean and climbable.

Did this one last fall. Didn't remember it being dirty. The 5.10 pitches down low were quite run, but when we hit the 11.a we found a bolts stacked closely together in comparison.

Ouch Chris, can't we get along neighbor? Really though...I don't know anything about that missing gear. That said, I am sure your more experienced self can get to the top of the first pitch of Japenese Gardens. Tell CC I said hello. Ben

soulreaper, you are right. the single bolt was for tmpv. hopefully, the missing hardware was allocated to a worthy cause. speaking of reproducing anchors...check out the area up above the tunnel at the country! There are like five or six anchors within a very small area...just below that crack that someone bolted (angoro grotto i believe). i feel very tempted to start 'stealing' B

Mike, This is the first pin I have ever placed. You might want to bounce test it ... Ben

I don't know anything about missing gear on the flake anchor. But, since Sagittarius has four anchors to choose from...then perhaps you should make a mini-short Japanese anchor...and then one above the 11.b crux...just in case someone can climb 11.b, but not the 11.c crux. Ben

The whole climb is excellent....all the way to bellygood. Ben

Not that sick. 11+ with lots of bolts to keep anxiety down. The last couple pitches are a little mungy. We did the route on Thursday as well. It took five pitches and three+ hours to get us to the top. Ben G

For anyone you was nailed by clods of dirt, sticker bushes and other botanical debris at the Lower Wall during the last couple of weeks...sorry. We have cleaned up some old classics. Pitches cleaned are 3rd, 4th, 5th pitches of tpmv, Cheeseburgers on trial, Stiff Kittens (pin replaced), Journey to pitar, and the Full and complete Japenese Gardens. Let's see some traffic up there! Ben

have you been on the route before? are you guys aiming to free it? Ben

Hi, What I have to offer is a pair of size 37 Kaukulator-Dru climbing shoes. They are built upon the same last as the Kaukulator; but they have a treaded sole making haste on mixed ground. A great deal. The only route I wore them on was the East Buttress of El Cap 10.b IV. Retail 149.00 I'm asking for 65.00 (or OBO). Thanks, BEN