AllenN

I *can't* believe that only one person has an opinion (but no -why- to that opinion) on this topic... -Allen

I missed this one, but here is last Friday's discussion of the topic that you can stream or copy down and listen to off-line. KUOW Archive Website -Allen

I'm interested in your opinions on what the best ice screws are for cascade glacier ice and why? So many models, so little time to test each of them in the field myself... I suppose if folks have some opinions on the best ice screws for WI that would be of interest to some as well, but I'm specifically looking for opinions on the former. Thanks all.

Went up with my wife Karen and friend Carla, hoping that the weatherman would get the forecast wrong. He didn't. Saturday was decent but awoke Sunday morning to snow, wind, and poor visibility. Not bad for Carla's first snow camping trip! Probably 4 or 5 inches of new wet snow. Bagged the trip, shoed out to rain at the snow park, ate a late breakfast at Brock's Oak Tree in Woodland (mmmmm, cheese blintzes on the buffet), and drove home. Oh well, next time. I didn't dig a pit or anything, but it seemed to me that the avy danger is on the high side with the accumulation of wet snow on top of the consolidated corn snow layer. The new snow slid easily under my snowshoes on the way out. I noticed tonight that the NWAC issued a special report due to the weather as well. Be safe! -Allen

Alpine Ascents guide falls into a crevasse. I've never been to Alaska; maybe someone who has been to this particular area and knows of the crevasse danger has some comments. http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/localnews/134448806_rescue05m.html Further up this thread, some folks have mentioned climbing without a rope when they could see the "obvious" crevasses. Here, Mr. McCullough states "This one that got me, there was no evidence of it at all." Article states that he fell 50 feet into the crevasse. Had a bunch of slack in the rope? Maybe Alpine Ascents will post some notes on their site out the accident. Seems to me that roping up on a glacier is prudent, considering people who are years of experience in certain geographies can still fall victim. Anyway, FYI on the accident. -Allen

Too bad for the doggy. I'm surprised that people falling in is not a common thing. I was up there yesterday and there were people right up to within a foot of the edge. From down the rim a ways you can see that the cornice is at least 10 feet overhung on summit. -Allen

Just reporting that they did in fact open the road to one lane traffic at 5 pm on Friday as promised. Water is pretty powerful stuff! Sluiced right through that levee wall and tore the pump/power/whatever station across from it all up. -Allen

From the WSDOT site, it looks like they plan to have the road fixed to one lane by the end of the week. Still best to check ahead though. http://wsdot.wa.gov/news/april02/sr503spurclosure.htm

Hi Mike, same question as Msalter. Heard through a friend of a friend who was up there about 1.5 weeks ago that they were turned around because they didn't have chains. The road crew wasn't requiring them to put the chains on, just have them with them. The person's car was 4wd too. Just curious if the chains-in-car rule is being enforced so that everyone can be prepared. thanks, -Allen

Thanks all for the ideas. As mentioned, I do wear gaitors but the water leaks in from below them. I'll try some stuff out and report back any success. thanks again. -Allen

I love my invernos but they have just one problem; no gusseted tongue. So snow and water creeps in there over time on the climb and soaks my liner. Anyone have any ideas for solving this problem? Homemade gussets? thanks, -Allen

I use a synthetic bag and jacket. For the Cascades, my thinking is that the snow is wet and the air is wet; sooner or later your bag is going to get wet. Down is hydrophilic. So even though you are trying to keep it dry, the down is sucking water into itself. Not as big of a deal I think if the relative humidity is lower where you are at - we just tend not to have low relative humidity in the Cascades. Wet down bags won't dry in the field either. I think if you are somewhere that the snow and air is dry, go down. For the Cascades go synthetic. I have a moonstone pg3d bag that rocks. I don't think they make my model anymore, in fact I don't know what's up with Moonstone lately, but I think mountain hardware makes one called 3rd dimension that looks similar. -Allen

For those of you who say Guinness sucks, how many of you have actually tasted a pint in Ireland? The stuff imported to the States is not nearly the same. Guinness in Ireland rocks. FWIW, American beers in Europe are usually brewed differently as well. Try a Bud in Europe sometime. Tastes different. Better in my opinion. -Allen

I also use a wedge-shaped Sundog bag for my SLR camera. I usually attach it to my hip belt, pushed to the side, and then further lash it so it won't slide off when I take my pack off. I'm with Phil in that I only take it on moderate glacier climbs. Who am I kidding, I only do moderate glacier climbs! Honestly though, for steep glacier or rock I've relied on other folks with point and shoot. -Allen

I suppose all the "zzzz"'s indicate you all find my response BOR-ing... I'll take the slagging for thinking safely any day though. Dan, also I wasn't questioning your intelligence at all - simply making a suggestion. Almost all the posts to your question stress practice (practice, practice) and a little insurance can never hurt. As far as who I climb with: minimum three others in order to make two, two-person rope teams. -Allen

Dan, I think you've hit is on the head when you said the Mountaineers basic course didn't cover 2-person crevasse rescue. I've never taken their course (I've looked at some of the materials and spoken with people who have) however I would not expect them to teach 2-person crevasse rescue in a *basic* course. IMO, 2-person crevasse rescue is not a basic technique - it's an advanced technique. Basic mountaineering courses are meant to teach recreational mountaineering. I think they exist to teach people how to be good team members and provide the skills to, with some experience, become leaders. You mention that you are new to mountaineering; I think that's awesome! Climb on! But before you start worrying about 2-person crevasse rescue I'd recommend getting 3-person crevasse rescue via the direct pull method memorized first and stick to climbing with two, three-person rope teams for the first several climbs. That said, my simple recommendations are: minimum the end folks on the rope should be carrying at least one picket with runner and biners attached. Each person on the rope should have the minimum full compliment of rescue gear: texas-style prussiks, a double runner / chest harness and biner, and tie-off loop. Then write up the crevasse rescue steps on a computer, print it out and tape it to a 3x5 card, laminate the card, and stick the card in the top of your pack. Then when the bad stuff happens and you need your wits about you, you can whip out the card and remember what the heck you're supposed to do. 3x5 card in the top of your pack may sound funny... but it will never hurt. Just my safety conscious $.02. -Allen