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Everything posted by Dru
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Then this must be Climber Heaven!
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Ernest Hemingway's mother dressed him as a girl
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You will have to ask Don because I couldn't find his TR but from what I recall it's definitely more of a committing outing than Angels Crest for instance despite a similar length and technical grade. Route finding skills strongly required (we were lucky enough to follow a trail of booty and bail slings all the way to the crux pitch). We got dropped off at the trailhead and walked down to the store in Lions Bay to call for pickup. Total time car to store was 14 hours including going over the summit of Harvey which is not so recommended - going down the gully, I hear is way better, with no raps required if you are good at downclimbing.
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NOTHING!!! I USE IT ALL THE TIME!!! IT REMINDS ME OF GOING ON TRIPS WITH BECKEY AND HAVING TO SHOUT ALL FUCKING DAY LONG!!!
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Yes and the approach to Slesse - both same road. The road is washed out 3km from Chilliwack Lake road. Takes about 1 hr to hike from the washout to the start of the Nesakwatch/rexford trail. Or 0.5 hour from the washout to start of Slesse trail.
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all you have to do is READ ANNABELLE'S EVEREST JOURNAL IN THE ANNOYING ALL CAPS FONT and then the high maintenance warning light goes on...
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Yes Andy Cairns dragged my ass up that back in 96 or so. here's a pic! Note screamer clipped to old fixed pin... This is the top of the 6th pitch where it eases off to 5.6 chimbley. The OW is right off the belay, you want two #3 camalot or 3.5 friends - one for the belay anchor and another one to place for the first moves then a #4 camalot as you move up . you stack fist-hand and then get edges to crimp on the inside of the OW and edges for your feet on the face IIRC.
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Adrian - Harvey's Pup is a blast but way more serious than Old Settler! Talk to Serl for the latest beta he did it last year or the year before. If I recall correctly this was another TD sandbagged by McLane (who hadn't done it) down to D+.
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Yeah, a 4 hour approach hike to a climb that you can solo in an hour, then 4 hours back out! Aaah the famous fish window. Guess that means a late-August or September Settler trip this year Pete - the Settler is like 30km away from Bardean on the other side of Harrison Lake not even in the Chehalis. About like mistakenly placing Liberty Bell in the Picket Range.
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if i had had lower standards i would have ended up married in 1997. i guess that makes me lonely by choice.
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Call Lakeside Pacific Forest Products office. The correct number is in the guide somewhere. If not in the peak beta check the approach page or vice versa, or the contacts section at the front. Or try the mytelus.com phone book. Now for the bad news - the bridge over Talc Creek reportedly washed out in the October 2003 storms. As of mid-June I know that the bridge had not been rebuilt. More like 10km than 5km of walking or mtn biking await you if the bridge has not been rebuilt, after you wade the creek that is. Please post here whatever info about the road LP tells you. Last I heard they were replanning to rebuild the bridge sometime this summer but I don't know if they've done it yet
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i'd bet money that the drapes don't match the rug
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i can still see some snow from my window here
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if you are gonna glissade down the n face an axe is always useful.
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This "they?" I'm sure you will fit right in.
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either the mclane whistler guide or the new bourdon squamish select has detail. you can get online topos for a lot of chek at squamishclimbing.com the sporto website. dr.topo is useless and plagiarized info anyway. chek has some good 5.8s and 5.9s and 10as and then a whole host of good 10s and 11s and 12s and some chipped out 13s and 14s. another area that would fit the bill is cal-cheak up closer to whistler. there are a bunch of new sport crags detailed in the bourdon guide with grades sub. 5.10 created by the whistler gym climbers for a good place for new leaders to go outside. then there are some excellent 5.10s and 5.11s as well. even some good trad. my fave cliff there is "pulp fiction"
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if it's inland then it is east of good climbing, except maybe the bugaboos.
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It only applies to sport climbing crags in Ontario.... but this is new science from the group that 2 years ago was proposing bannning all new routing in Ontario because it supposedly threatened endangered plant and lichen species. The new paper is something of a turnaround and is based on a better understanding of climbing and a better sampling methodology. I think it's good news and the paper can be used to help fight for climber access in other similar situations - such as at Skaha or L'worth or wherever there are concerns about climber impacts on rare plants. Oh yeah also to pope and dwayner this paper is saying that sport climbing (bolts up clean face) has less impact than scubbing out some dirty and plant filled crack for a new trad route Sport climbing - clean and green!
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ABSTRACT THE RELATIVE INFLUENCE OF MICROHABITAT CONSTRAINTS AND ROCK CLIMBING DISTURBANCE TO CLIFF FACE VEGETATION COMMUNITIES Kathryn Lynne Kuntz University of Guelph, 2004 Advisor: Dr. Douglas Larson This study is the first to determine the relative influence of pre-existing microhabitat constraints vs. direct rock climbing disturbance to the cliff face vegetation communities of the Niagara Escarpment in southern Ontario. Climbed and unclimbed cliff faces were sampled quantitatively for vascular plant, bryophyte and lichen species richness, percent frequency and community composition, microtopographic feature size and frequency, and measures influencing microclimate. Results revealed that certain microhabitat conditions are related to increases in the richness and cover of cliff face vegetation, and that rock climbers select for different microhabitat conditions when establishing climbing routes. No decreases in vascular plant, bryophyte or lichen species richness or cover on climbed cliff faces were attributable to direct climbing disturbance (I added these italics-DB). Pre-existing microhabitat conditions explained greater proportions of variation in vegetation community composition across unclimbed and climbed cliff faces than climbing disturbance. A policy is presented that permits new climbing route establishment with limited impact.
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[TR] Hurley & Lillooet River Roads - 7/10/2004
Dru replied to PaulB's topic in British Columbia/Canada
Fawk yeah some one else that spent all last weekend driving around instead of climbing something!!! -
yeah but I will be spending my birthday in a tent with an 83 year old man instead of in a pub with cute girls
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Chek at Cheakamus Canyon.
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happy birthday y'old lady
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There is no such thing as the "Inland Northwest". There is only the "Near East" (Leavenworth, Skaha etc) and the "Far East" (Rockies) and then "Siberia" (anything east of the Rockies, eg. Calgary, Chicago, Florida)