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Everything posted by Dru

  1. Climb: Slesse Group - Labour Day Summit -East Pillar & Gendarme Date of Climb: 7/17/2005 Trip Report: This was supposed to be an overnighter but my climbing partner, who is also a firefighter auxiliary, got 2 callouts on Saturday afternoon. Thus we turned it into a long, long daytrip. sunday 6AM I met Shaun at the vedder bridge. drove out to nesakwatch creek parked shauns truck at 7am and started hiking. the new trail to slesse memorial is nice al;beit a bit muddy. once it joins the old trail, significant bush has been cleared to slesse memorial making for a fast hike. 1.5 hrs from the car from slesse memorial to the road end, NO bush has been cleared. there was a lot of dew on the jungle so we had to stop twice to empty water out of boots, wring out socks and steam a bit in the sun. from road end to prop cairn the trail is well marked and in good shape. about 2.5 hrs from the car from propellor cairn we started traversing south across the moraines and talus. our destination was Labour Day Summit, the SE most of the Slesse Group peaks. you get a good view of this from rexford. the Labour Day Buttress (north buttress) was climbed in the 70s and a route on the E face, was done in 2003 but we knew that there was still steep granite left unclimbed. we traversed to the base of the NE face and scrambled a few hundred meters to a snow gully leading up to the col between the east pillar, and a major gendarme. we were able to avoid most of the snow via slab climbing to its right, mostly class 4 with a few 5.7 moves. got forced onto the snow at the top, which was a bit worrisome as shaun just had stiff boots whereas i had floppy boots and had a 3rd tool. shaun kicked good steps and i followed with the tool out on some 45 degree neve. it was soft enough to kick steps but hard enough to be stable, so we made out OK. the last bit up to the col was a muddy, rotten basalt dyke that made for though provoking scrambling. from the col, we first scrambled up the gendarme, although fearsome from most aspects the back side went at a pleasant class 3-4. however the final summit was a 4m high block, overhanging on 3 sides, with 200m drops below. shaun soloed the 5.7 moves to the summit while i took pictures; i was feeling too cooked to go up there myself. back down in the col it was very hot and we were dismotivated. to go up would be difficult but to go back down would also be a sufferfest. we napped for an hour or so and finally started climbing around 2 pm once the face was fully shaded. shaun picked out a good looking but steep and hard line going almost directly up from the col. i volunteered to let him lead it all as i was feeling rather weak and worked over already. the pitches went at 30m 5.7 (soloed), 30m 5.10a, 45m 5.10d, 60m 5.10b and 50m 5.4 to the summit. amazing climbing up finger, hand, and knee sized cracks and then a loose chimney. the 10d pitch was one of the best alpine pitches i have climbed, shaun did a really good job on lead. i was forced to pull on a few pieces while seconding. by the time we got to the summit it was 6 pm. great views in all directions especially with slesse looming to the NW, an unusual view of "The Fang". to descend we scrambled down the south face of labour day peak and then traversed south until we could downclimb a ramp into the second cirque SE of Labour Day. then we had to climb through a ridge notch into the SE cirque, and finally could begin the long traverse back to the Prop Cairn over snow, moraine and boulders. we had been out of food since the summit, but took advantage of the many meltwater streams to stay hydrated. back to Prop Cairn at 9 PM, great alpenglow from the sunset on rexford etc. made it to slesse memorial just after 10, headlamps on, staggering by now. neither headlamp had a new battery so the light was rather faint but we made it to the car by 11:25 PM and I was home in da Wack by 12: 30. I nearly fell asleep while drinking the victory beer, and arrived late for work today. Pics to come, and we did not yet come up with a name for our new route. Gear Notes: One set of wires Full set of cams (purple TCU to #4 Camalot), with doubles from yellow TCU to blue Camalot. Didn't have a #5 camalot but could have used it for the 5", 5m long offwidth off the belay on the 2nd pitch. no pins. Approach Notes: Nesakwatch Cr road 2wd/3km, 4wd/6km. Bring rain pants or something for dew soaked bush.
  2. CC.com turns 7

  3. CC.com turns 7

  4. Slesse fatality yesterday?

    I can confirm I'm not dead.
  5. See... iceworms are only found on glaciers not in your average snow patch. Mid latitude temperate glaciers (including all in the Lower 48)ar eprojected to vanish in the next 50 years or so due to global warming.... That will probably kill all the iceworms in the Lower 48 SO - could the US Endangered Species Law be used to force implementation of a stricter Kyoto Protocol, in order to reduce global warming and protect endangered iceworm habitat? (And glacial ice climbs for climbers as an unexpected side benefit?) Just wondering.....?
  6. Post count race is heating up!

    Getting excited about 5,000 or 6,000 posts is so 2002.
  7. 1000th post

    If I have calculated correctly this will be my 1000th post!!!!!
  8. the queens of spray

    Hesitation Blues indeed
  9. the queens of spray

    what about the hotzen that is knotzen?
  10. Stone Nudes

    We should do our own Stone Nudes of CC.com calendar. I leave it up to you to decide who represents which month and what are appropriate locations. Muir Hut? On a tottering pillar at Vantage? Wide stemming up Ski Tracks Cracks or Moonshine Dihedral? ?
  11. he's back!

    well, two anyways
  12. Quarantine the Fat!!!!

    Obesity caused by virus! You need a vaccine, not ephedra.

    dru had sex with himself. no way dude, i'm saving myself for marriage baa

    Hey Muffy, Alpinfox can give you lessons in poleclimbing
  15. I have a strong suspicion this is a cc.commer. No joke.
  16. how i got into spray.

    Listen n00b - there are only two "Star sprayers" on cc dot com. Trask and me. And trask got banned. So STFU. baa skull
  17. Hangover

    no, they are good because they are full of grease, which runs around inside your stomach and scavenges up any lurking alcoholic nastiness. proof of this is that if you don't have egg mcmuffins, shots of olive oil work just as well
  18. SUCK IT!

    30011 biotch
  19. Better than Stone Nudes?

    You wouldn't see many youths out here dressing up East Coast Poser... that stuff stops in the midWest.

    30009 you stupid american
  21. a trip with snoboy

    since there is no ice and no local snow i saved my pennies and then drove over to rossland in search of fluffy kootenay champagne powpow. snoboy, snogrrl and snocat welcomed me, fed me dinner, organized party and let me sleep in the attic snoboy was on patrol on fri so snogrrl and some friends took me lift skiing on red id love to say that i hucked huge air and threw down a mute 180 into a tailgrab but my accomplishments were limited to skiiing down the green runs without falling over yesterday snoboy and i went for a tour we skiied thru a bunch of trees, some were quite close together and over several mountains snoboy did 95% of the trailbreaking through fluffy powpow i followed along in his tracks after digging some pits and stuff and seeing scary facet layers and christmas crusts we skiied out to the groomed run at sundown and i made several glorious yardsale wipeouts late in the day but we survived then we went to a new years party and drank champagne and played a party game and went extreme bobsledding! rossland is cool yay for snoboy and snogrrl