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Retrosaurus

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Posts posted by Retrosaurus

  1. quote:

    Originally posted by Dru:
    why would you girth hitch to a biner when you could clip??????????????????????????

    To hold nuts in opposition.To shorten a runner.I am sure there are other uses, but these come to mind quickly.

    I knew Freeclimb was an academician. Hopefully he will post his climbing schedule with the mountaineers on their website so that we can avoid being involved in the rescue/recovery/clusterfuck. [laf][Moon]

  2. Freeclimb9 is obviously one of those stupid engineers. Maybe he should move to Virginia too. Maybe they are related; cousins or brothers or both.

    Honestly, the most dangerous shit I've ever seen done on crags and in the mountains was done by engineers. Of course they were also graduates of the Mountaineers Course.

  3. Ivan,I am glad that you and your "engineer" buddy are climbing in Virginia and not around here. Please get your shit figured out before you start climbing around here so that I can avoid being involved in your body recovery.

    Slinging wire is obviously stupid.

    Girth hitching slings is acceptable if it is not to be subjected to high impact forces (leader falls). The heat generated when girth-hitched slings tighten suddenly against one another in a fall can overheat and seriously weaken them.

  4. quote:

    Originally posted by Peter Puget:
    Has anyone ever found Pivotal Moment? If so is it worth doing?

    In the winter it can ice up thick enough to be fun and much easier than when it is a rock climb and you have to get horizontal under the roof off a viscious biter fingerlock.

    The water streaked rock with a roof at the bottom, not far up the hill above Air Roof.

  5. In the large basalt cliffs where multiple flows can be visualized, there is usually a broken up area where the top of a lower flow interfaces with the bottom of the next overlying flow. This is what I was referring to as "entablature" earlier. This structure where succeeding layers meet often forms a system of ledges or overhangs or both at once, often providiing access to upper tiers, especially when a talus slope reaches up to the ledge system.

    Zenolith,R U HI? O jus dupid?

  6. quote:

    Originally posted by MysticNacho:

    Whatever happened to Sexual Nympho anyway?

    Hey ButtTacoMuncher,

    This is not a Singles BB: "GWM looking for companionship". Please use another bulletin board to make your connections.

    -Alpine A-hole

  7. Peter, you are so right.

    I now see the error of my ways. What we need is more access, easier access. Hell, the road should be paved, and plowed, kept open all winter. Hell, the road shouuld go all the way in to the Stuart-Colchuck trail junction. And a tram to the top of Aasgard. And up the North ridge of Stuart! Build steps on the trails! Hand rails! Handicapped access! Via Ferrata! An IMMENSE parking lot! A Mickey D's! Don't be selfish and think of YOUR WEEKEND TRIP. Think big. I want to share it with everyone. FUCK WILDERNESS. WE NEED HUMANITY. And we need it in The Enchantments. Thanks Peter.

  8. quote:

    Originally posted by David Parker:
    ...not allow foot traffic up that dirt road is #$@$$@% ludicrous!!!! Hell, we should be able to ford the stream if the bridge was gone. This is one stinky RAT with a hidden agenda. And to think they can (try to) charge us for NON-ACCESS!!!! Not for a mili-second would I let this stop me from walking up that road if I really wanted. ...if conditions are right, up that road I will go. FUCK 'EM!!!!

    Right on, David.

    (Hidden agenda? It's always about the money.)

  9. You can access the top pitch of Zenith from the right via an entablature ledge and then rappelling from the top of the route. This pitch forms some of the best ice I have climbed on in Washington. Beware the ice hanging above. Last year My partner nearly got blasted off that pitch when an immense whistling-missle pulverized on impact 30 feet from me and avalanched on top of him half way up the pitch shocked.gif" border="0 .

  10. quote:

    Originally posted by TIMM@Y:
    ...let them get washed out and never repair them...

    This is exactly what I would like to see happen. Nothing like geographical barriers to protect an already over-used, abused, over-regulated, fragile alpine environment. I can walk the few extra miles. Think of all the people who wouldn't. If access took a little more physical effort, maybe permits would be unnecessary.

  11. quote:

    Originally posted by kevin page:
    Oh yeah, what's with that belay station above the roof and between Devil's Delight and Fright. New route, not in the guide
    [Wazzup]

    Satanic Verses. Not so new, just never made the guide book.

  12. Before meeting a partner for a climb of Castle Rock I would take the beers down to the river and screw them into the sand under the water about two feet out from the bank. The look on my partner's face when we went down to the river to cool off after the climb was priceless when while wading in I reach under the water into the sand and pull out a cold one. And then another. And then another...

  13. quote:

    Originally posted by chucK:
    Do you exit left or right at the top of the handcrack? Exiting left seems much more difficult.

    Exit right. As I see it, the exit left belongs to Devil's Delight.

    Devil's Fright. Now there's one that is make-me-puke strenuous for its grade.

  14. quote:

    Originally posted by mattp:
    I think Crack of Doom is hard. That is one of those L'worth climbs that I believe has a "stiff" rating. Maybe I'm just old and weak.

    Crack of Doom was 5.9 when I first climbed it. The jams are rip-my-arm-off solid. Any one else find the no-hands rest near the top of the crack?

  15. quote:

    Originally posted by OfficeSpace:

    Damnation is no offwidth eh? Let me watch you to see if you cannot get an armbar
    wink.gif" border="0
    I never got fists on damnation but did seem to get half my body in there. I never laybacked either. I think maybe you should check some definition of offwidth or maybe me.
    wink.gif" border="0

    I am concentrating on my numbers. I want to know what people think Canary is rated..

    Half of your body, fists for a real climber.Works for me!

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