scot'teryx
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Posts posted by scot'teryx
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Hey Ray, go stick a cam in your big trap, a 4.5 would work fine, or a good size Big Bro, your such an opinionated ass sometimes.....
I am sure that all the women just love you!
This has been said so many times before, but if you dont want to read it, then dont freakin read it!
Not everyone is harcore and as cool as you are, someday I hope to be 1/8 as cool as you are, since you can still get your shit up stuff.
My post was for skiers that might have been interested in the snow conditions, since they were the best conditions that I have encountered all year (just about).
Now go climb something really hard, and then spray about it.
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dont get hurt josh, but I'll change mine if you change yours
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Looks like we have a friend headed down there tomorrow morning (real freakin early), so hopefully we will be at Johnny or Ida Creek
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only if you like to pay too much
they retail for $21.95
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I know your not supposed to belay off of it, it works real well in a system. Anyone else?
I guess I need to reiterate the question?
I didn't really care if you didn't use it, I was more curious if anyone else USED it in a PAS instead of a daisy chain, since that is what it is categorized as by Metolius. You not suppsed to belay off of a daisy chain either, and everyone knows that.
I always back it up with the rope, so go ahead and read the question again and again until you figure it out
Metolius says "Daisy Chains can be used for rigging jumars, leading aid pitches and sorting out complicated belays. Choose from our standard nylon or spectra daisies or our revolutionary Easy Daisy."
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like your cartoon face is any better?
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scot'teryx is wayyyy cuter than klenke and sharma
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Fence_Sitter said:
couldn't you just use a clove-hitch off the rope to do the same thing?
that's my backup, but then again, im fucking redundant in my anchors
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Does anyone else use this as a personal?
I have found it to be a priceless piece of gear at belays, and although I know your not supposed to belay off of it, it works real well in a system. Anyone else?
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I was just curious if anyone might be heading down to 11worth this weekend and camping~
We plan on going down on Friday early afternoon, but if anyone is going earlier, it would be cool if someone could save us a spot down in the Icicle Canyon (i.e. Johnny Creek/Bridge Creek CG)
thx
Lemme know
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skykilo said:
Oh yeah, Scott, why didn't you have a screwdriver with you? I always carry one, it's definitely one of the top 487 essentials. How else are you gonna steal a car when you get lost in the woods and hike out to some road with 30 miles to go to nowhere?
I got myself a screwdriver now, but instead of ripping off cars, I just call my friend to pick me up
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Gumbies like you................
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Marmot did the same thing to my bindings when they mounted them. I told them my weight and my experience, and they said they would set them accordingly, and I never checked to see if they did.
Of course my first outing this season I released on every turn in the mashed potatoes....
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Since I had voluteered to help with a glacier climbing course this weekend, Chuck J and I headed up to Stevens Pass on Friday night, left our stuff outside the Mountaineers Lodge (A friend had the key who was coming later) and started out from the upper lot around 830pm. We reached the top of the Hogsback and then skied down towards the base of Tye and then skinned up to the top of the chair. It was snowing steadily the whole time, and we were happy to find one of the lift towers open where we warmed up and got ready to ski down.
We only skied down to the 1/2 way point inbetween upper and lower tye where we dug our snow cave for the remainder of the weekend, cached some gear, and then skied down in the darkness towards the Mountaineers Lodge. We arrived around 130am only to find our friends and a roaring fire. We went to sleep at 2am and awoke at 6am. We then ascended towards camp with the rest of the large group to our camp area. A couple more new inches of fresh snow got us excited, and since we did not have to setup camp, we went back up to the top of Tye and skied down in some great fluffy powder (about 6" fresh, all new tracks).
The remainder of the day was spent teaching and instructing. As they began the Z Pulley demonstration, we thought to take another tour before dark and head up to the top of the ridge on Tye and ascend the ridgeline towards Cowboy Mountain, a way I had not gone before, but we thought it might link up towards the top of 7th. We caught a cat track and wound up underneath the large Rock cirque on the peak just west of cowboy where we spotted 3 steep descent lines. 2 couloirs and one treeline couloir. We did not scope out the rock couloir lines enought to see if there was enough coverage so we descended the steep treeline that narrowed out and went at about 55 degress or so. From there we caught the line back towards the bottom of Tye and back to camp and then another quick run down from the top of tye after that. The coverage on the upper mountain was the best I have seen this year!
The next morning (430am) we found ourselves guiding out the groups that roped up for simulation, and made our way up the rock garden area towards the top of 7th, and thne the last steeper slopes to the top of Cowboy Mountain. Skinnning the last few hundred feet really sucked as it was 6 inches of fresh on a real icy base, so we were sliding all over the place. Trying to keep our skis on, we had to take them off for the final 15 feet to the summit ridgeline. At that point Chuck fell over while taking his skis off on this steep slope and slid for a good 30 feet before hitting a tree (lucky for him). After waiting for the remainder of the groups to arrive we got to make our descent from the summit ridge back to camp, which was the most enjoyable run I have ever had down off of the 7th chair!
Back at camp we packed up and headed down, all in all a great weekend of skiing..........
still wished I would have been at WA Pass though
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Fish Wall by Duty Dome has a mixed 5.9 called "Sardine Routine" which is cool, and a few other routes worth checking out, but a few are bolted
Also "April Mayhem" and "Sonic Boom" at Trundle Dome are fun, both are mixed as well, but fun. There is also a 5.8 fingercrack lieback and flake route on the same wall there on the far left. None of these are multi, but fun nonetheless
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Just had a clinic by the Trango guy on wednesday
It seems like it's worth trying it out.
Unlike a cordelette it will self equalize at almost all times.
I.E. If you tie off your cordelette in the downward direction of the route, and if the person following has to traverse or go left or right at all and they fall, it will actually weight just one piece.
You can also clove hitch the tie in points to each bolt or piece to allow even more equalization.
I guess the one thing you have to watch out for is the sewn part of the runner cannot be near the ring that equalizes as it will get caught and not allow for the runner to equalize
It can also be used in different lengths, so it does not have to be for 3 pieces or bolts, you can tie of 2 ends to one bolt or gear for shorter anchors, or use just 2 ends for tie in point for a long anchor. From the demonstration, it is also good for larger trees and stuff as well as it works well as a long runner.
But then again, what the hell do i know?
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JGowans said:
The size of the rack?, etc.
I remembered this time, and all we brought was the ol camalot .75, 1, 2 and lots of slings.
So to everyone else, how fun is it to free solo?
I would think the weight of your rope to rappel would suck to have on, or do you downclimb the whole thing? I am thinking that if I ever did free solo something it would be das toof or sabre
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Just spoke to a ranger and found out that the road is plowed all the way to the WR turnoff, but it is closed to the public so no skiing or hiking up to glacier basin is allowed via the road as they are doing maintenance. Projected opening is May 23rd
By then glacier basin will be melted out and the intergalcier will have receded to camp curtis!
Has anyone been up the carbon glacier side recently?
They say its open to high clearance vehicles only, wonder if there's good skiing up there now?
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Yeah, we found the shovel handle. It's got a phone number on it. My buddy (the ponytailed dude) is gonna call her. His name's Ken.
It's actually mine, and that's my phone number. I wasn't too stoked to tell my wife a friend lost half of her shovel!
Maybe he can get it to an everett mountie that could get it to cascade crags?
Man did I get sunburned up there!
Watch out folks, I hear Toast is going up there this week perhaps -
BTW - still a ton of coverage up there for skiing, if it would just get cold at night up there it might not turn to mush so quick
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Good to see you up there J!
Did you guys happen to find a shovel handle on the way out?
My alpine chica friend did not tie it off well to her pack and lost it somewhere inbetween the climb and the road.
Did you ever get the small nut out that was placed 2 feet back in the crack?
I heard that there was shit talking up top because we passed your rope team on the last pitch.....
I've also seen that one ponytail guy before in Vantage, but that's a whole 'nother story........
There was some serious comedy going on up there, and at the last belay, j and I could not stop freakin laughing
BTW - avy conditions were sure bad yesterday, set off several small slides that moved slow but gained alot of snow everytime I cut a slope. The layer was generally 6 inches. That upper basin slab would be scary to watch go
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Saturday: "Muir on Saturday"
Sunday: Inlaws and then my parents
Too much food!
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Stefan GLOWACZ
"At the End of the World"
Cascade Crags
Thursday May 22
4-7:15 Shoe Demo
7:30-9:30 Slideshow
STEFAN GREW UP in Oberau by Garmisch Partenkirchen and started climbing at age 14.
His first three years were trad climbing in the alps before his contact with sport climbing. His notable
achievements are: 1983, 2nd ascent of Jerry Moffatt’s "The Face" 5.13 in southern frankenjura;
1985, first victory of the first sport climbing competition "Sport Roccia" in Bardoneccia/Italy.
From 1985 until 1993 competition climbing; most important titles: 3-time winner of the Rock Master in
Arco, Olympic Demonstration Comp winner in Albertville/France, masters winner in Troubat/France,
masters winner in Nürnberg, second place in the word championship. Second ascent of "Punks in the
Gym" in Australia; 1st ascent of "Emperors New Clothes" 5.14 in Wilder Kaiser, first ascent of
"Fitzcaraldo" 5.11 after the overland approach to the Cirque of the Unclimbables, first ascent of
"Northern Light"5.11 on Tupilak in Greenland, first ascent of "Moby Dick"5.13 on Ulamertorsuaq in
Greenland, first ascent of "Hart am Wind"5.12 Renard Tower/Antarctica, first ascent of "Odyssee"5.12
Polar Bear Spire/Baffin Island, second ascent of " Silverhawk" 5.13 Rätikon/Swiss, second ascent of
"End of Silence"5.13 Berchtesgaden, first ascent of "Conspiracy of the Fools"5.12 El Gigante/Mexico.
Married with three children; age 37
One of the founders of RED CHILI climbing shoes.
F R E E RED C H I L I SHOE DEMO
• Q & A with STEFAN
More info at Cascade Crags: 425-258-3431
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May 3
SEWS
Photo by sverdina
Stevens Pass Weekend TR
in Spray
Posted
Please lock it already, it's freakin boring me
I guess I gotta go climb TC, but I'm gonna do it in June
Osman style with running water and everything!