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highclimb

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Posts posted by highclimb

    Go to V-WORLD and meet Lambone

    in Spray

    Posted

    hey does anybody see a strage thing happening here? first theres the guy office space that talks "smack" to Lambone. they theres this panter guy and know this groundfall dude? why do you pick on Lam?

    aidan

    [This message has been edited by highclimb (edited 08-23-2001).]

    Best Pitches In The PNW

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    single pitch trad - Picies (sp) - Index, all you need is three peices of pro...a #1 camalot, #2 camalot, and a #3.5...ahhhh

    multi pitch rock route - outer space!

    alipne rock route - the last pitch on the south face of Prusik

    The second pitch above the detatched pillar on Serpentine Ridge. the most beutiful 5.8 coner!

    Can't Focus

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    john,

    well most of what i have suggested i havent done actually the only ones are Serpentine, South face of Prusik, and the east ridge of Forbidden. heh but i suggested them because they are long alpine routes.

    out of the three i have done i would say......thats tough. they are all great!

    Serpentine is Big and quite commiting. also has good rock climbing on the lower half

    The South face of Prusik is 6 pitches of awsome climbing. the quality of the rock is what everybody wants all the time. also quite sttep and exposed!

    the East ridge of forbidden is 7 or 8 pitches. its not the best rock and its not all that clean but the setting is a reason to go by its self. also the crux pitch is cool and on better rock than the rest of the ridge.

    i cant choose. sorry i like them all! but you probably have done them all too!

    Aidan

    Can't Focus

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Lambone,

    about longer alpine rock climbs:

    either the north, west, or the east ridges of Forbidden.

    the east face of Lexington tower

    the west face of NEWS

    Liberty Crack on Liberty Bell.

    just for suggestions smile.gif

    Aidan

    Alipne Ice Tools - straight or bent

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    ted,

    well if you have bent shafts like the shrikes, where the bend is in the lower part of the shaft is bent as apose to the top part like the cobras, they works fine plunging into snow and neve. i pluged with my bent shaft Black prophets all the way up stuart glaicer couloir and had no problem.

    it all depends on what you are planning on doing the most. if you are really just buying them to do alpine stuff you should consider just buying them with a strait shaft (in really hard snow the would go in easier) but if you want them to do everything then buy them with the bent shaft. this will prevent unwanted bashing of the fingers, when on steep alipne ice.

    Aidan

    [This message has been edited by highclimb (edited 08-01-2001).]

    Can't Focus

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    ok well i need to clear somethings out. first of all my parents love me climbing theny have nothing agaisnt it they let me go one trip and such. THE BIG PROBLEM IS THAT I CANT DRIVE!!!!!!!!!!!! its horrible. if i could drive i would climbing, if it were raining i would be aiding at index or hiking. i sit here on days like this a hit myself because i could be out there right now. the idea of going to one spot and staying there for awhile is alittle unreasonable but very very tempting. i mean my parents love me climbing but they want me home sometimes. and also i have trips and stuff.

    Yosarrian,

    i lost it to Dogleg Crack 5.8+ on Alphabet Rock. i wanted to try something and when i went for the move my left leg poped off and i feel like 5 feet in total so it wasnt anything that bad but i was excited to learn that pro really works! hahaha.

    And Dru,

    my parents arnt worried about me meeting weird guys on this site because i have meet some cool guys. erik, dan, geordie, and that really weird dude i dont know if you guys have seen his posts, the CAPTIN wink.gif

    Aidan

    Can't Focus

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    listen to dru man. tell me how i can get to the mountains when all my partners are either away on trips or at work. i would be glad to hear it.

    and i wasnt trying to be a mountain expert i was trying to help out lambone if he ever wanted beta for the route. the thread is about what routes he could do in the future that are long hard alpine routes so i gave him a suggestion.

    Lambone,

    another one i recommend is the south face of Prusik Peak. 6 pitches of absolute Awsome granite.

    Aidan

    Aidan

    [This message has been edited by highclimb (edited 07-30-2001).]

    Can't Focus

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Office space,

    in fact i was home watching sitcom...oh umm no wait that was last weekend...no i was out craggin in icicle. i am sorry i couldnt get a partner and get up in the mountains and be the man like you are. but i did take my first leader fall. pretty exciting! lucky i place bomber pro. and whats up with dissing 14 year old "boys" huh? pick on someone your one size...maybe aim for 6 or 7 year olds..yeah i think will suit you better and you might not get beat up on.

    Lambone,

    thanks for the tip about loose shit. i read a story on rock and ice about a guy climbing the north ridge and a block cut loose while he was on it and it cut his rope and he fell all the way down to the stuart glaicer and into the bergshrund and died frown.gif pretty sad.

    also i second fredroggers suggestion about serpentine ridge(easier than backbone) or backbone ridge(if you want a more sustained difficult route than serpentine). i did serpentine ridge in late june. it was FANTASTIC!!! the lower pitches are incredible and once you are on the ridge proper you get a feeling of total Alpine big wall Ambience looking down on the climbers on the colchuck glaicer. and the easy pitches above give you some releaf wink.gif. we did it car to car in 1 day. no need to camp unless you want to. and carried all our gear up and over. also be very VERY careful about loose rock on the upper third on the route. because you could knock something down on a praty below you. but if officespace is behind you it might not be such a bad idea wink.gif... please dont sue me. e-mail me if you want a ful trip report smile.gif id be happy to write one up for you.

    Aidan

     

    Can't Focus

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Lambone,

    so did you ever run into Office space? or did the dude not show for fear you might through rocks on his head rolleyes.gif

    good job on the climb! the climbing semms to be a sickfest! i need to get up there this summer!

    Aidan

    Alpine Ice Tools

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    i would recommend...if you can still find some....either the BD CFBP or the BD BP. i have a pair of BPs and they do everything. on WI they stick better than my partners shrikes and in the alpine they plug well and keep your hand warm because the rubber wink.gif

    my 0.02$

    Aidan

    N Face Shuksan conditions?

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    john,

    so you went on the trip to?! AHHHHHH!! ill be honest with you........my friend had a birthday party so i couldnt go. yes i did get the beta from colin. did he tell you of our previous etempt on it two weeks ago? if not you should really hear it...its funny. are you up for climbing this weekend? because i think colin has plans. let me know i am very eager to get climbing again for it has been to long....AHHHH!! ill be up for anything....craggin...alipne

    Aidan

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