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highclimb

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Posts posted by highclimb

  1. I second dans statement above. MVS is strait up geed up from the feet up. a true gangsta. one more vote to my good friend mvs. 1st runner up: Der Wanderer for good times spent in the hills

    2nd runner up: danielpatrick smith just because hes dan. we need to go to index sometime, get you back climbin.

     

    Aidan

  2. John and Michael,

     

    talking to colin and looking at his slides of the approach (under the perfect conditions he had) seemed fairly strait forward. it took them i think under 5 hours (colin correct me if i am wrong). you would bring snowshoes so carrying them on the snowless trail would not be too much of a weight problem. and it doesnt matter about losing the trail after you encounter snow becuase you make your own anyway. so it would makes things easier in winter with the brush covered. just bring a map and compass i guess. and call colin for specific beta smile.gif . i was thinking about how fun that route would be in the winter. great views. my 2 cents of info.

     

    Aidan

  3. Yes singing is a must-do while in the mountains! But you must stick to high pitch yelling rock like Led Zepplin and such! i do a great robert plant.

     

    anyways..... yeah appraoch beta for the lower col to gain the glacier. Travis is correct we hiked up along the left side on the basin (did not cross the stream and continue up) to the lake where you can see above and to the left is a waterfall. we hiked to the top of that on the left side to a small snow patch and the col is right in front of you a hundered meter. from there you scramble down a fair amount to the glacier below. hope this helps.

     

    Aidan

  4. just got back from Vesper's north face. the glacier was fine. brought lightweight aluminum crampons and ice axe. would not have been fun without the crampons....actually it would have been scary....the Moat is crossable. we had to step across onto the face and then downclimb a bit in the moat to get to easier ground. all in all a great trip...go get it.

     

    Aidan

  5. Weather was for the most part ok. thin cloud cover with sun breaks ever so often on saturday. Sunday started off with a cloud cover(kinda warm in the morning) and in and out of sun breaks and snow showers until about 5pm when everything started to clear up and it got nice and sunny.

     

    Aidan

  6. Colin,

     

    i know that a couple years ago Dan Smith went in to climb NY Gully but didnt end up climbing it for some reason. Instead his partener and him climbed a "gulley" in between the notch and NY. he described it as swinging into frozen pieces of moss. so maybe talk to him, he might have some information. just a thought.

     

    Aidan

  7. climbed it today(saturday): good conditions interesting mixed climbing on the first pitch. nice hard snow on the middle section and the steep ice step toward the top of the route was in and really nice. have at it!

     

    Aidan

  8. The west face can be a fun adventure in the right conditions. In the winter of 2001, Colin and I did the west face (north section) via the large ramp that cuts through the face. it consisted of moderate snow climbing(in trees) and then zigzaging connecting ramps via steep snow climbing on rock. probably 5.2-3 in some areas. a fun half day object but wait for more snow coverage and a good solid forecast.

     

    Aidan

  9. hey again i turn to the cc community to help me with school realted issues. i am trying out for the fall play at my school and the audition consists of me telling one joke. now i need some help because i want a really funny one. now i am sure you guys know some that arnt to vulgar.

     

    thanks,

     

    Aidan

  10. This sunday i was attempting to climb rainier in a day. just above muir my thighs started to cramp and charlie horse and give me horrible pain. at some points i would have to stop and kneel down and stretch and massage them. this only helped for about a minute. so whats up? am i just out of shape? so does any one else suffer from this? what should i do about it? lift weights?

     

    thanks

    Aidan

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