Russian Butte

[rock-ice]

A couple of months ago a friend and I climbed a higher but less well known peak (revolution peak shown on maps as 5440ft) near Russian Butte with the intention of following the ridge it was on to the summit of the butte. We left from near the Mial Box Peak trail head and followed old logging roads to the base of the summit ridge. To our surprise we found a log cabin only 500 ft. from the summit?!?! Does anyone know who owns it?!?! We continued on to the summit after some steep traversing on which we needed crampons but did without. There we got a good veiw of a possible route from further up the middle fork river road.

On a site I found the route was discribed as following a rivedbed from the Middle fork road, dry during the summer, ascending a feild of moderate then steep talus with a skeetchy final traverse to the summit.

Has anyone here ever done this route or been close enough to know what i'm talking about. I'm particularly interested in details pertaining to last couple hundred feet to the summit because every thing I've read says its nasty on such loose rock.

[ 04-03-2002: Message edited by: rock-ice ]

[northfork]

The Russian Butte is a Middle Fork Classic.Lots of awesome views of this majestic valley from the summit.

I used a different approach as opposed to the one you describe. Cross Middle Fork and gain the trail along Pratt River. Head up trail for maybe a couple of miles and then head up steep slopes on the East side of the Butte. Make sure you are on South side of the summit and gain crest and then work your way up to the summit.

I did this as a winter climb, hence I not too sure about rock quality.

Ascent can easily be done without any need for rope.

Do It.

[greenfork]

How is the ford across the Middle Fork?

[Matt_Anderson]

Needs some repair, but the Chevy still runs.

[northfork]

Used an old two person raft to paddle across on a calm section. Too deep to wade. This added to the adventure. Could be dangerous if the river is running high.

[Mike_Collins]

I have climbed Russian Butte from the Middle Fork but chose to descend by way of Pratt River. The ascent was made by taking the road on the right which is 150 ft before the Middle Fork Bridge (the road will say "Private. Keep Out". Maybe 3/4 mile further up this road is some shack where I thought I heard banjo music.But for sure I saw shotgun shells nailed into a tree trunk spelling the words, "KEEP OUT." This was close to the old meth lab. But the route from this side should only be done when dry in late summer or early fall as it involves going right up the creek bed. Not just the bed but up the waterfall areas also. Stay with this stream until about 2,200' when you will see another small stream (possibly dry) entering on the left. This has a small cairn and drains the avalanche slope which you will need to ascend. At the top of this talus field there is slabby rock for 800+ which is Class 3-4. We wished we had brought rope for much of this section and I am not nervous about exposure. This risk is the reason we chose to go five miles out of our way to exit via the Pratt River and then ford the Middle Fork. You can avoid this exposure by traversing over from Revolution. The upper slopes above 4,000' are easy heather with no risk that I can remember.

[Dru]

Do they make those Russian Buttes out of titanium? Or is that what you get if you spend all night sleeping on a Russian portaledge?