Winter

Nice work! We found a critical placement for a red x4 at the lip right above the beak on P6. But then again, we aided through . . .

That sucks that someone got hurt. Why not replace old pins with new bolts? Because one bolt might lead to more bolts? Or because pins are safer than bolts? Retrobolting should be off limits but yanking the mank and upgrading it with some modern stainless steel seems a little different.

Nice work gentlemen. No obligatory shot of beer drinking in El Cap meadow after the send?

Cool thread. I was born in a house on Lake Sammamish built by Big Jim, and my folks ended up with this vintage ice axe from the Everest years. I think its only a few inches shorter than I am.

Is the Nesakwatch FSR Subaru-accessible?

We climbed Gillette Arete on Saturday. Since Pete and Tim's ascent in 2009, there was only one other entry in the register from 2013. The position and the climbing are excellent and very unique for Oregon. The approach is long, and the route is really only two pitches, but the Muddy Fork of the Sandy is a beautiful place, and the hike was well worth it. We approached up the north side of the south branch of the Muddy Fork, which required some bushwhacking through slide alder and scrambling up and down the banks of the river. The south side of the river looked friendlier, but there was a lot of water and we weren't too stoked on a creek crossing higher up in the drainage. I'd say the first pitch goes at 5.8 with a short crux through a roof with a tight hands crack. The second pitch felt like 5.10a - a really nice tight hands face crack eventually leading to the summit. The entire route is out on the edge of the formation with excellent exposure, solid rock and great views of the Sandy River basin. And from the summit, you can take in really pretty vistas of the West Side of Mt. Hood and the Sandy Glacier Headwall. It's a cool spot for sure and worth a visit.

Snow starts shortly above the round the mountain trail.

Thanks a lot, Zac. Hope you're doing well.

A good friend (well ... ok, its my wife), damaged some finger tendons - not sure yet how bad it is. Anyone have recs based on personal experience for a good hand therapist in PDX who is used to working with climbers? Thx.

Sounds awesome, and hope I can make it. We were out at the Wombat this weekend, and the erosion on the descent trail off of Koala Rock is really bad. A great project would be to build a descent trail with a single switchback to bypass all the erosion along the base of the wall.

Looks great! Thanks for the TR. That move around the outside corner on Snot Girlz is so fun.

Black O is a cruise. You should be fine - very fun route and cool position. Epi will be cold - brrr. Birdland is also good for a cool winter day but there will be crowds.

Ainsworth on Saturday. Crackman on the sharp end. Pitch 1 Pitch 2 Both pitches were pretty sporty. Cape Horn on Sunday BillA ColinB aka The Road Cone Hero Ice.

The Old Chute - West Crater Rim was in great skiing condition yesterday. Corned up around 1 pm. 150 ft of side slipping off the summit ridge into 6000 ft of bliss back to Timberline. Should be good all week with this weather as long as there's some sun.