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Mt. Olympus via Humes Info?


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Anyone have any beta on the approach to Blizzard Pass and Camp Pan from the Queets Basin? I will be up in the Olympics for two weeks this summer linking the Bailey Traverse>Olympus>Valhallas>Anderson>Constance>Mystery>Deception>Needles>Grey Wolf RIdge. Been to all aforementioned places except the section from Queets Basin to Camp Pan. I have the climbing guide and can follow the straight forward description in it. However, I am curious if there is an alternative route that avoids the potential bushwacking and game trails at 4200-4800 ft?

 

NNW of Dodwell-Rixon Pass at approximately N47degrees 47' 33" W123degrees 36' 30" (Green Trail Map--Mount Olympus, WA--No. 134) is Poseidon peak. I know there are two couloirs that can be climbed to gain the summit. The southern couloir is a thin line of snow that tops out into a section of technical alpine rock, the southeast couloir is a nice broad couloir with no rock sections. I saw them the first time I did the Bailey. From the summit, a traverse of the ridge line will bring you west to Blizzard Pass. Has anyone done this variation? Any info would be appreciated. I have had a picture of those couloirs and wanted climb them for over eight years. Cheers

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Traversing around the North side of Posidon near Bear Pass.

 

 

Sounds like you've got a great trip planned.

 

Last July a friend and I started at the S. Fork of the Hoh, schwacked into the Valhallas, crossed over the summit of Mt. Olympus (via Hubert Glacier), did a high traverse from Camp Pan to Bear Pass, traversed the Bailey Range, and hiked out the High Divide.

 

On this trip, we made a high traverse from Camp Pan to Bear Pass, traverseing around the north side of Posidon Peak. It was relatively early in the summer (early July), so there was quite a bit of snowcover, which probably made the travelling a bit easier. We kept on the north side of the ridgeline since an actual ridgeline traverse would have been much too cliffy. There was some fun routefinding involved, such as finding snow-filled couloirs that connected snowfields, and picking our way around the Humes-side of a peak near Camp Pan.

 

I posted photos and a report from our trip on my website:

 

http://sabegg.googlepages.com/valhallas

 

We made the traverse from Camp Pan to Bear Pass on Day 6.

 

Also, from my observations, the section between Queets Basin and Bear Pass is mostly open heather slopes with sparse trees - and you will be able to look ahead and see the obstacles, so I would guess getting up to Bear Pass would not be too onerous.

 

Hope that helps, and if you have any questions or want to see any photos from the traverse (I've got several), let me know. My email is sabegg@gmail.com

 

-Steph

 

 

Edited by Steph_Abegg
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I've been through there during a late season trav. We did the bush-wack traverse per the book. It really didn't look like a good alt. existed, but you may see one >pic< . Trust in thy book and thou shalt be saved. Traverse higher through the bush before dropping into the gully or thou shalt be doomed. From there you're good to go. Next problem could be dropping in from Pan. Late season was hairy as hell as you can see from this shot >pic< looking back at pan from other side of the glacier. Early season should provide a snow descent.

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Thanks Steph,

I had seen you website and trip report before but didn't realize that pick was the backside of Poseidon. I have done the Bailey from both directions and I remember when approaching it from the south route finding was more challenging. Luckily we will hit the couloirs direct, by dropping down from Bear Pass to the base of Poseidon>traverse on the north side> and head to Camp Pan. Cheers.

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