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[TR] Boston Peak - East Face via Quien Sabe 7/30/2016

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Trip: Boston Peak - East Face via Quien Sabe


Date: 7/30/2016


Trip Report:

Is Boston a "low grade heap of ore"? Quite possibly.


Is it worth climbing? Most certainly, if only for the summit register and view. There aren't many peaks that can boast such a vista, especially ones that are comfortably climbed in a day from home (It took us around 11 hours CTC with breaks and time on the summit). And it really isn't as bad as its reputation- IF you are on route. I started up the rap route and quickly realized why this was the scene of a fatality in the 1960's. Avoid. Instead, traverse farther north once off the glacier and find easy third and a short bit of fourth class that will take you to the exposed summit ridge. You're likely to have the spacious summit to yourselves as you peruse one of the best registers in the range. Three single raps will deposit you on the glacier and a bit of exposed, chossy, third class (which seems way easier on the way back) will take you to the Boston-Sahale Col, the Quien Sabe, and easy terrain back to the trail. We all remarked how nice of a day trip it was, especially since we saw the hordes jamming each other on Sahale all day while we had Boston to ourselves.


A funny aside.... I saw Kevork getting onto the Quien Sabe about a week after I ran into him up in Depot Creek. He's everywhere!






















Gear Notes:

50-60m half rope, a few nuts/tri-cams, helmet, ice axe, Al crampons. Glacier gear.


Approach Notes:

Kevork says it is faster to do Boston via Cascade Pass, and I have to think he knows what he is talking about. Still, it wasn't a terribly long day RT from Boston Basin (which I had thought would be much quicker).


BB trail is in fine shape. Stream crossings are a bit spicy on hot afternoons.

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When I first tried climbing Boston, long back I think 1999, I thought it was terribly junky and backed off. Then, I went to the Canadian Rockies a few times and got more used to true junk rock, and now I think I'd be up for it! :)

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It truly has been cleaned up a great deal by all the Bulger traffic of the past several decades. We did our share to further clean things up. It really isn't bad at all and is pretty solid if you are on route. The rap route, on the other hand, has a lot of portable holds (plus poor gear) and looks dangerous to climb (fine to descend).

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The timing of this photo looks suspiciously like the photographer had setup in hopes of catching some one swimming. Not today sucker! :laf:


Fun day out there, the view of the East Ridge of Forbidden sure is alluring from the top of Boston, great views all around. I'd give the route a 3.5 out of 5 on the chossdawg rating scale.

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