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Hunter Lee

first ascent [TR] Bridge River near Lillooet - Bitcoin Billionaire 01/07/2018

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Posted (edited)

Trip: Bridge River near Lillooet - Bitcoin Billionaire

Trip Date: 01/07/2018

Trip Report:

 

Steve Janes, Danny O'Farrell and I climbed a new route off Bridge River on Jan 7/2017. After working in the area for a few years Danny noticed an attractive flow of ice high up the valley that had yet to be climbed. After driving by the previous day we knew that top pitch was in, and looking good.

 

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Photo Credit: Steve Janes

After a 90 minute approach we were surprised to see another curtain of ice slightly off what we thought was going to be our start point- with the grade 4 ice looking good we started the climb there. Here's Danny belaying me on the first pitch.

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Another view of the first pitch which felt like a WI4- pitch. We were pleasantly surprised and excited to see this ice so low on the route. Going in we thought we'd be mixed climbing our way to  the upper tier.

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Steve Janes dealing with the first difficulties on the memorable second pitch.

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Once we got going things only got better- after the first pitch we were drawn into a tight chimney and climbed thru some difficulties in the M6 range. Here's Danny making his way, or squeezing his way up the memorable 2'nd pitch.

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Here's Danny nearing the top of the second pitch.

 

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Once out of the chimney we climbed thru some easy grade 2 ice and one tricky M4 slab section before finding another M6 chimney. Here's Steve Janes dealing with the first tricky section of this pitch.

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Photo Credit: Danny O'Farrell

Once above the second Chimney we pitched out a short 25 meter grade 2 ice pitch before climbing the WI 4- upper tier of ice. This was a really enjoyable day out with great company, this route has an alpine feel to it and is worthy of repeat climbs!

Bitcoin Billionaire: WI4-, M6, 325 Meters

P1- 55 meters WI 4- First Pitch
P2- 55 meters WI3/M6 The Fun Chimney
P3- WI2/M4 65 Meters The snow slope that had the low 45 degree slab (tricky) need to simul climb a short distance in order to reach a tree belay.
P4- 30 Meters WI2 
P5- 55 Meters WI3/M6 The roof pull then second Chimney
P6- 25 Meters WI2 Quick Pitch to the upper curtain
P7- 45 Meters WI 4- The wet upper pitch

Here's a view of the route from the Bridge River road.

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Gear Notes:
Rack of screws- heavy up on 13's, good idea to have a couple 10's as well, Rack of cams to #3, some pins knifeblades, half ropes

Approach Notes:
Approximately 43.5 km from the turnoff in Lillooet or 6.5 km before Terzaghi Dam. The route lies between the already established routes Salmon Stakes and A New Leash on Life” along the highway on the east side of the river.

Edited by Hunter Lee
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Nice!  And the best thing, by next week it will have quadrupled in value!

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Wayne and I climbed this route on Sunday, thank you FAs! A really fun great addition. I think we had more ice on the mixed pitches than you (one week later) so could use screws most of the way. P2 was especially fun but both the mixed pitches were really great. Hope it doesn't fall apart during the warm up before more people can check it out. The top of P1 (right after the pillar) and the end of the last pitch had no barely any ice when we climbed it. Before I saw this, I posted some super shitty pics in the OR/WA thread in the ice climbing forum on this site (but yours are much better).

You guys are on fire in Bridge River canyon with new routes!

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