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dave schultz

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About dave schultz

  • Rank
  • Birthday 11/11/1986


  • Occupation
    US Navy
  • Location
    Everett, WA
  1. for sale FS: Closet Cleanout - Lots of random gear

    bump. added: 13cm x 3, 16cm x 6, 19cm x 4, 22cm x 1 BD ice screws. looking for $35 each. will include how-to for sharpening ... thanks, dave
  2. for sale FS: Closet Cleanout - Lots of random gear

    Bump for the new year!
  3. Where to go this weekend?!

    not if you drink the new DPS Kool-Aid ...
  4. [TR] Chair Peak - North Face 12/16/2017

    I'm a little perplexed by the slab you triggered. How far from the crown to the stauchwall? what was the bed surface? did you evaluate the descent and snowfield before committing to the climb? did you look at the details for the snow after you triggered the slide? I don't remember reading anything on NWAC about skier or climber triggered, only control triggered slides. I have not been out into that terrain yet this season, and am thus very interested in anything you might have seen. Two reports of climbers not mixing well with fresh snow while descending from Chair ... maybe not the best place to go in those conditions. You got pretty lucky. http://media.nwac.us.s3.amazonaws.com/media/filer_public/9a/37/9a3701a9-c36c-43e6-a974-7631d934a554/chair_peak_accident_1_4_14.pdf http://media.nwac.us.s3.amazonaws.com/media/filer_public/33/73/33735d46-4a66-4e49-b9dd-88124d8157c2/chair_peak_15_jan_2013_report.pdf EDIT: I just re-read the 16 Dec Snoqualmie Pass TR on TAY and they had a 15cm deep 18m wide wind slab propagate and release - smaller than yours, and not as unusual to trigger while skiing. Your report makes it sound like the snow was very touchy ... Dave
  5. recent inversion pics

  6. for sale FS: Closet Cleanout - Lots of random gear

    weekly bump for updated items. thanks!
  7. for sale FS: Closet Cleanout - Lots of random gear

    Located in Everett. DPS are drilled for 7TM power tours, I have an extra set I'd be willing to part with for the right price.
  8. Climbing the Triad Dec. 13-14

    do you know how far you can drive along cascade river road?
  9. for sale FS: Closet Cleanout - Lots of random gear

    Bump. Sold items have been one-lined. Added: Women's Medium Scarabee Softsheel Ski Pants (coffee bean color) (wife's, they are in PERFECT condition, we're just going a different direction with her pants). $100 Women's Helly Hansen Ski Pants (white) (wife's, they are in good shape, we're just going in a different direction with her pants). $25
  10. for sale FS: Closet Cleanout - Lots of random gear

    Bump. First Light is spoken for, but not yet sold. Sold items have been one-lined. Make me an offer! Thanks!
  11. 2012 Petzl Helios Helmet, orange, well used - $20 2009 Black Diamond Half Dome Helmet, blue, moderate use - $20 2016 Camp Speed Helmet, green, new - $40 2014 Arcteryx B360 Harness with middle gear loop removed, used, a year of heavy use, a few of light use left. - $35 LOTS of retired rope of various lengths, dog leashes, training stuff, rugs, etc. - $0.20 per foot 0.4, 0.5, 0.5, 0.75, 0.75 BD C4, all in good shape. I would go whip on any of them. - $25 each Neutrinos - $3.5 each (deal with volume) Silver Red Purple x 2 Blue Green Yellow x 2 Mammut Locking Pear - good shape, $4 Mega Jul, good shape - $10 ATC x 2, good shape - $5 each Princten Tec Apex Headlamp (very bright, large size) - $20 Mammut Headlamp (medium bright, medium size) - $15 Princeten Tec Fuel (not very bright, but small) - $10 2012 First Light Tent, one small duct taped hole, only used on snow and four nights in Garnet Canyon in GTNP - $100 2009 Black Diamond Womens Harness, a year or two or light/moderate use left (only due to age), looks new and was never heavily used - $10 Pair of android leashes for current gen BD Cobra or previous gen Viper (may work with current gen Viper, but I cannot confirm) - $15 each ($25 for the pair) 2012 La Sportiva High5 188cm ski, drilled with several quiver killers. Probably best to meet in person to make sure your bindings will fit. Size 13/30.5 boot, so if your a lot smaller probably better. - $100. 2012 DPS Lotus 120 hybrid 190cm ski, drilled with several quiver killers. Same deal as above. ADDED: Women's Medium Scarabee Softsheel Ski Pants (coffee bean color) (wife's, they are in PERFECT condition, we're just going a different direction with her pants). $100 Women's Helly Hansen Ski Pants (white) (wife's, they are in good shape, we're just going in a different direction with her pants). $25 Pics available upon request. Deals made to move this stuff to a home that will use it. Located in Everett, easily get around the general area from Seattle to Bellingham. Thanks! Dave 239-two-three-three-2002
  12. Hi, I recently moved back to the PNW after spending several years in the Northeast; and am looking to build my partner base back up. I'm looking for a partner for this weekend, Saturday or Sunday, and it looks like the weather will support just about anything. Some ideas: Prusik Peak. Solid Gold would be a stretch, but doable. South Face might be warmest. West Ridge would be most casual. Stuart. Complete NR or Upper NR. Maybe WR if you don't want to go for the big ticket. Something on CBR? Something on Boston Basin? TFT? Johannesberg? Open for ideas... Skiing up at Baker or up on Rainier are also totally in the cards. Would also be up for Index, Snow Creek, Icicle Creek, etc. Maybe Darrington if you've got some ideas. WA Pass is also a good option. Freezing Levels around 14k Sat and Sun AM, dropping to 10k throughout Sun. I'm good for leading 5.10, or up through 5.11 depending on style, pro, safety, etc. Grade IV in a day is also fine, though this time of year would require quite an early start. I'm safe, several years of experience, and have a current WFR. Thanks! Dave 239-two-three-three-2002
  13. WTB - petzl sum'tec adze

    The weight of the sum'tec is one of the enhancing features about it. The gully is not really designed for anything other than being on your pack in case you need it; if you need it, you'd be happier with the sum'tec; if the terrain is challenging enough that sum'tec's weight is too much you'd wish you had a real tool (and definitely not the gully). Ice axes and tools are one of those things where the skimping of weight is counter productive. I actually looked for the heaviest axe I could find when purchasing my most recent one. You definitely don't want to be in a position, pull you axe out, and realize your ultralight toy is no match for the snow, snice, neve, or ice in front of you ...
  14. His opinion is not exactly scientific. I would argue that webbing is easier to judge the quality when compared to cord, making the decision to trust it or beef it up easier. I thought I had read that webbing is more UV resistant than cord; though, in my quick google search, I can't find any real evidence toward either being any better against UV. Some quick numbers: 6mm Edelrid 9 kN 2023 lbs 25 g/m 81 lb/g 6.5mm Bluewater 9.3 kN 2100 lbs 26.3 g/m 80 lb/g 7mm Bluewater 10.4 kN 2360 lbs 32.9 g/m 72 lb/g 1" Bluewater Webbing 17.7 kN 4000 lbs 40 g/m 100 lb/g I find that cord makes a master point better than webbing, but this tends to focus the wear in a single area. This works best with larger diameter cord or rope. Redundancy is achieved with two loops around the tree, rock, etc; and this requires a longer length. Adding a length requires a double or triple fisherman, though you could maybe make a reasonable argument for using other knots. Another way to add redundancy is to add two independent loops of webbing, which may be easier and likely uses less length than the cord with masterpoint strategy. The two loops of webbing also prevent isolated wear since the loops are able to rotate around and spread the wear. Does accessory cord have a true core with a sheath? Looking at mine, it appears there is a core, but it is fairly small. Regardless, the strength of the webbing is an order of magnitude higher than the strength of the cord. So, I use webbing because: (1) it is significantly stronger. (2) I am/was under the impression it was more UV resistant than cord, I'll do some more research to try and find the answer. (3) I am able to easily remove a significant amount of the tat at an existing station (i.e. all the nasty shit), while leaving the one or two best lengths of cord or webbing, and simply add a loop of my own webbing (which is easier than cord) to improve the overall station and remove the excess trash. (4) on a route where I think there is a possibility of needing to beef up a station, I will bring about 10 feet of webbing, which is sufficient to beef up at least one station. Anything beyond one station I will use my cordage and, if needed, my rope. (5) on a route where I KNOW I will be adding an unknown number, but definitely multiple stations, I will bring 30-40 feet of webbing in a continuous length, which should give me plenty to add the required stations. The cord and rope are still options. A lighter to clean the edges of the webbing is nice. For v-threads, cordage is still king, and I use the cut off ends of a set of double ropes at 7.8mm. Cut to pre-measured length make for easy threads.
  15. My current philosophy is: 7mm for rock terrain (ie real rock climbing, real falls possible) 6mm for alpine terrain where real falls are very unlikely; and ski terrain where the loads are significantly less than vertical. Who made the 9kn 6mm? I currently use 6.5mm dynamic prussik cord from bluewater in the alpine and on skis, but still use full 7mm for rock terrain. For a dedicated quad, ie four total strands I would think the 6mm should be totally adequate, but would potentially limit you in application if you were in rock terrain and wanted to undo the quad. I've also shifted to webbing for reinforcing or upgrading tat, though cord works if you don't have any webbing. For leaving cord, 6mm seems fairly limited on the time it will add value before it's just another POS that needs to be cut out.