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About mattp

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    Spray Master
  • Birthday 05/23/57


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    Seattle, WA USA
  1. Trip: Darrington - Three O'Clock Rock - 'Till Broad Daylight Date: 8/25/2017 Trip Report: On Friday I was able to replace what I believe are the last few old bolts on The Kone and the 'Till Broad Daylight variant that joins The Kone after the headwall on pitch 5 (pitch 3 for many modern parties). There may still be one old bolt on the traverse leading to the belay for that headwall but, if there is one, it is probably not a big problem.
  2. New Routes in the Pacific Northwest (nwmj.org)

    Thank you, Lowell, for maintaining this effort. I tried a link you had for reporting new routes early in this thread and it didn't work out for me - so you may need to update it. Meanwhile, I think I can safely say that all of us northwest climbers thank you for what you do. Really.
  3. Good times tonight, good music, and a bunch of people are coming home from Fremont with some great swag.
  4. The Washington Climbers Coalition (WCC) is hosting a night of drinking, raffling, dancing, and general tom foolery at Nectar Lounge with the proceeds benefiting the Washington Climbers Conservation Initiative (WCCI). We have been doing stewardship projects for ten years but, in 2017, we are upping our game. The Access Fund is sending their crew of professional trail builders for ten weeks of trail work at the Gold Bar Boulders, Index, Exit 38, and Tieton River. We will be asking YOU to volunteer. Tomorrow night we are conducting a fundraising event at Nektar Lounge in the Fremont neighborhood of Seattle. All proceeds will be devoted to the WCCI. Please come! $20.00; raffles; beer; live music; fun.
  5. The book is on its way to the printer! (I think.)
  6. I'm pretty sure I posted something last year, but Mountaineers Press is reprinting the Cascade Alpine Guide, volume 2 (Steven Pass to Rainy Pass). While they are not ready to rebuild the book there is some room for corrections. Fred has updated Glacier Peak and Forbidden Peak entries to reflect current climbing habits and current concerns at these and some other destinations. We've tried to incorporate current conditions on major approach roads like the Suiattle, the Stehekin, and the White Chuck. Some new routes are added and some information regarding other peaks have been updated. There still may be time to incorporate further corrections but the text is going to "design" this week. Any last minute suggestions?
  7. Darrington access pass?

    I think Ben's right. If you are going to Exfoliation Dome you'll be parking on the 2060. I've been working to keep parking options open there for 25 years. If you are going to 3:00 Rock you'll be parking on the 2065. In either case, I don't think you need a pass. The roads are only open because of climbers' advocacy. Consider supporting the Washington Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund.
  8. The early start is a good idea, and I don't think atypical of climbers who are successful on that route. In fact, I believe an early start is essential. It is a fairly long climb, route finding can be an issue, and it is not roadside: many parties wander around on the approach hike, which is not on a maintained trail and is pretty long even if you know the way. The route faces southeast. On a sunny day it heats up before you even get started. Cool days or cloudy days where rain is not predicted are preferable.
  9. Thanks, Jason. Fantastic pictures of a fantastic place! (As always.)
  10. Darrington, The Kone, 10-24-15

    That flake above the two old bolts on that pitch rattles when you slap it. It might hold a Fall just fine but it might also fail. Even though it is not the crux of the pitch I hope to replace those old bolts but they were not high priority because, as you note, there is protection there. But maybe no there there.
  11. Anybody wanna go replace a few more this weekend? I think the Saturday forecast looks doable.
  12. A couple of buddies and I went back today and Mark Hanna and I replaced five more rusty 1/4" bolts on that "headwall" pitch on 'Till Broad Daylight, accompanied by Jeff and Tyson. It was amazing as the earlier forecast was for something like a 70% chance of rain but the forecast suddenly looked better yesterday and the rain held off until we were all loaded and driving back down the road. There are still a couple of old bolts up there, but Daylight is looking pretty good. There was fresh chalk on all the knobs up there. Somebody who climbed it yesterday was just a day to early - unless they were looking for the last scary ascent.
  13. My wife and I rented a jeep and camping equipment from a very hospitable outfitter in Moab three years ago. They had a very capable 4x4 and a complete camping setup all ready for us so all we had to do was to buy groceries. Some of the gear was not fully functional so it was not "perfect" but I have no hesitancy in recommending them. We had a great time. I could find their name if you don't already have a good plan.