[TR] Forbidden Peak - East Ridge to West Ridge Traverse 8/2/2009

[t_rutl]

Trip: Forbidden Peak - East Ridge to West Ridge Traverse

 

Date: 8/2/2009

 

Trip Report:

Out to Boston Basin for a shot at Forbidden over the weekend. Wanting to improve the alpine leadership skills I hooked up again with Matt from Peak (www.peakmountainguides.com). Original plan was to head up the West Ridge. Hearing the approach couloir being shot we decided to do a traverse of the peak ascending the East Ridge and descending the West.

 

First off I gotta say the biting flies were out in epic Biblical plague proportions and hope to NEVER experience that thick of a cloud of those horrid bastards again anytime soon. That being said we hoofed it to camp in a shade over two hours.

 

 

The smoke from Chelan's wildfires filled the air and our lungs.

 

 

The next morning the alarm went off at way too early and shortly we were under way by the light of headlamp.

 

 

After a couple hours on trail we were ascending the snow heading for notch at the base of the East Ridge

 

 

Then time to gear up for the rock...is Nike approved mountain wear??

 

 

The route was a hoot! A mix of super airy traverses and fun 5.7 stints up and over and around gendarmes all with PLENTY of air under your shoes. One section dubbed the "Wheat Thin" (I've seen crackers with more substance) had you doing some funky lieback hand traverse with wicked exposure between the heels...super fun!! The crux came a pitch short of the summit...a pillar guarding access to the home free feeling...standing maybe 30-40 feet tall it was all of 5.8 and then some with one helluva view! After that it was low 5th onto the summit for some photos and a quick convo with some Russian comrades.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It's always enjoyable heading down a different way than you came up...the West Ridge was straight forward...the East I'd say was quite a bit spicier and an absolute blast!! After some rapping and down-climbing we were at the base of West Ridge. 5 single rope rappels got us to the snow and off to camp we went.

 

 

Roasting in the sun all day had me dehydrated like a mother so it was heaven to suck down about two liters of glacial melt off...although the glaciers are looking quite dilapidated and sad in this heat

 

I did find it funny seeing a small patch of 8 or so flowers sitting in a nook at 8500' and bees traveling for their nectar...now that's dedication!!

 

 

Gear Notes:

ice axe, med rack & sunscreen...rock shoes were a huge plus for the East Ridge

 

wish i had a portable bug zapper or some Raid...

 

Approach Notes:

Washout past Eldo fixed. BB trail straight forward...stay low at the last water crossing (large creek ~5000')...run the grassy moraine out from the low camp

 

 

 

[Pilchuck71]

Looks like a lot of fun.

Nice TR and pictures. The bee picture is really cool.

Thanks for sharing.

[Lisa_D]

Love the pictures - what a scenic route you climbed!

[zoroastr]

Great pix of the E Ridge! Good call on the full traverse; we took the usual retreat from the summit on our climb of the E.R. and found it a bit of a routefinding mess! thx for the gr8 tr.

[goatboy]

That looks like a great way to do it.

 

In the past, I've been tempted to ditch my boots, ax, etc. at the start of the E Ridge, and return that way via E Ledges, but I think I like the way you did it. Certainly descending the way you did is scenic and less stressful than the NE Face.

 

Question: Did you descend the couloir proper, or did you rap down the 4th class rock to climber's left of the couloir? I have never been that way (climber's left) and wonder what it's like.

 

Nice TR and good work!

[goatboy]

Here's a picture from mid-July about 5 years ago. Check out the difference in conditions on the N Face of Buckner!

 

[img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/298Forbidden_E_Ridge_053.jpg[/img]

 

Compared to this year's early August conditions:

 

[img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/medium/IMG_3098.jpg[/img]

[Gary_Yngve]

That looks like a great way to do it.

 

In the past, I've been tempted to ditch my boots, ax, etc. at the start of the E Ridge, and return that way via E Ledges, but I think I like the way you did it.

 

One way I've done it is up the east, down the west to the notch, back up the west, and then down the east ledges.

[t_rutl]

Here's a picture from mid-July about 5 years ago. Check out the difference in conditions on the N Face of Buckner!

 

[img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/298Forbidden_E_Ridge_053.jpg[/img]

 

that's wild...they were sure looking thin up there...such a crazy diff for only 5 year!!

[t_rutl]

That looks like a great way to do it.

 

In the past, I've been tempted to ditch my boots, ax, etc. at the start of the E Ridge, and return that way via E Ledges, but I think I like the way you did it. Certainly descending the way you did is scenic and less stressful than the NE Face.

 

Question: Did you descend the couloir proper, or did you rap down the 4th class rock to climber's left of the couloir? I have never been that way (climber's left) and wonder what it's like.

 

Nice TR and good work!

 

thanks man. we had heard mixed reviews of the e. ledges but mostly stating they sucked...ran into a couple CCer's who got off Sharkfin (Calder was one)...he said he did the TFT (with Alpine Monkey) previously and tried the e. ledges...said it was the biggest pain...that was the icing on the cake not to go...that and i had never been on the w. ridge before so a traverse sounded like a unique and fun climb...which it was all that and then some...the climbing on the e. ridge is much more involved that the west and truly a lot of fun! although ya gotta search for good gear placements...a lot of the cracks you'd like to protect are formed by stacked blocks...no bueno...nut placements were few and far between...i think we placed all cams but for 2 nuts

 

as far as the descent goes we got some good beta from a group coming off the day before which turned out to be spot on...the crest between the first two gulleys to the climbers left of the couloir has 5 perfectly placed single rope rap stations going down it...scramble from the notch down to where there is the obvious divide and coming off the nose of that is where you start...when we were up there it was army green slings...stay on that crest...dont be tempted to cross to the gulley though...the raps are money down the rib and your more clear of rock fall from above...the last rap is actually off of bolts if you can believe that...Forbidden has been bolted...

 

 

[powdrx]

Great climb and great pics!!

Did ya'll take crampons. Heading out this weekend and just finalizing the pack list. And thanks for the West Ridge rap beta!!

 

[t_rutl]

took a pair of aluminiums but never pulled them off the pack...when we were out the freezing level hung around 14k...i'd pack'em and when you stop by NPS in Marblemount check the weather and make the final decision there!! but for us it was soft enough at 4am to use just boots.

 

good luck!!

[goatboy]

I assume that rap line you drew is the same approximate area of the 4th class ascent route recommended when the couloir has melted out?

[t_rutl]

the gulley to the side of the rap line was the ascent of choice by the parties on the West Ridge...although there weren't many nice things to say about it...that's why we opted for the E-W travesrse

 

look forward to a TR if ya make it out!

[BillH1]

Which side of the rap line is the ascent gully? A friend and I are headed out to Boston basin and are thinking of doing the West Ridge on Forbidden. Thanks. Bill

[t_rutl]

climber's right has the only real feasible accessibility

 

if it's busy be wary of crap kicked down from above!

[BillH1]

Thanks. We'll be in Boston basin for a bit more than a week so we hope we can do Forbidden when it is not too busy.