powdherb Posted January 31, 2011 Posted January 31, 2011 (edited) Trip: Chamonix, FR - Voie Pellissier Date: 1/31/2011 Trip Report: Tom promised to show me some mixed climbing that everyone's talking about. My fingers got really cold. It beats 10k of icy moguls though. Starting up the bottom pitch. Trying to figure out these sharp toolz. It turns out that it's quite fun. Some nice sticky ice (M5?) in the gully, finished with some 5.9 rock crux. Now it's getting more real. Beautiful alpine granite with excellent gear. Did I mention it was cold? It was. Pulling the crux on the 5th pitch. Gervasutti, looking dry. Jaeger (the line to the looker's right) had tracks on it from a certain mentally-ill swede. Freeride alpinism. Hauling-ass back to the train. We made it by about 2 minutes. Missing it would have meant certain death on the treacherous trail du bois. Edited January 31, 2011 by powdherb Quote
fultonville Posted February 1, 2011 Posted February 1, 2011 Have missed the train in the past and done the trail du bois back. We called it Mr. Toad's wild ride! Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted February 1, 2011 Posted February 1, 2011 That looks as good as it gets. Nice! Quote
Peakpimp Posted February 1, 2011 Posted February 1, 2011 Sweet! I'm heading there next month so thanks for the awesome stoke! As if I needed to be any more stoked at this point!!! Quote
Dane Posted February 2, 2011 Posted February 2, 2011 GREAT TR thanks! Voie Pellissier, Pointes Lachenal 200m, TD-/II 5a/4/M5 L1 - 25 m : 75°. L2 - 50 m : 80° et un passage de 3 mètres en mixte à 85°. L3 - 50 m : 60°, puis un passage de 3 mètres en mixte. Obliquer à droite et grimper en mixte sur 15m (1 piton en place - M4) L4 - 30 m : grimper dans un système de fissure (5a) puis en mixte (M5) pour regagner le haut de la voie (col de neige). This stuff is off limits to visiting Amerikans like Fulton and Josh Sorry! I hope Josh lives through this post after seeing the line, and Fulton lives through the lead Quote
Peakpimp Posted February 3, 2011 Posted February 3, 2011 Oh man how sweet! There is also a badass recent video of this route on TV mountain right now. Quote
wayne Posted February 3, 2011 Posted February 3, 2011 Dang, Herb, are you gonna be there in late feb, early march? Quote
powdherb Posted February 4, 2011 Author Posted February 4, 2011 (edited) Yes. Since it is obviously not going to snow between now and then, I predict good climbing conditions. Wanna hit some lines? I climbed it again today. It was even better than the first time. Temps around -4C and clear skies. An excellent outing. Edited February 4, 2011 by powdherb Quote
Dane Posted March 2, 2011 Posted March 2, 2011 Bit bigger than the guide book numbers might imply Nice job Herb! Quote
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