joepuryear

Kevin - I didn't realize there wasn't a topo in there. The route is on the right wall of the Dirty Sanchez arete. Head up a nondescript pitch of class 4 in the big bowl to a set of bolt anchors near the wall. The real climbing starts with the 'Shock' pitch - 5.10a (all bolts)- that goes up the wall, then traverses left to a ledge. Next is the 'Awe' pitch - 5.10c - a 180' crack (variable size), to another set of anchors. A short easy crack leads back up onto Dirty Sanchez at the base of the short bolted face. Take gear to 3" and don't be surprised to find a bit of typical Goose Egg nastiness...

I think Shock and Awe is in Yoder's Tieton book isn't it? I don't have a copy in front of me. As for Ignorant Bliss, it goes up the large pillar to the left of the Spoil Ill amphitheater and pretty much stays on the pillar to the top (the first pitch starts in the LFC that forms the left base of the pillar). 1st pitch is the crux (5.10), then many bolted pitches of 5.8-5.9 above. Should be pretty easy to follow. Best to stay off the unbolted and loose last pitch and exit right via Spoil Ill gully or go down the ledge left to Gangsta Rap.

Trip: Goose Egg - Spoil ill Date: 7/20/2010 Trip Report: In the early part of this millennium, the Deep Water Horizon was constructed and started drilling for oil throughout the world's oceans. At around the same time, Stoney and I searched for our own spoils on the south face of the Goose Egg. We started several drilling operations and discovered much untapped potential. Several routes were constructed and in 2003 the beginnings of a new project were under way without any plans or regulations. But years of procrastination, underfunding, and lack of oversight went by and the route was left as an unfinished project. On April 20, 2010 when the Deepwater Horizon was terminated, it was about time that our new route was finished as well. We spent days moving up and down our vertical production platform commencing our own clean-up operation and plugging away at the insufferable cliff. But even after the route was finally finished, it was left unclimbed. Finally in mid July of 2010 as the Gulf oil spill was finally capped off, it was time to cap off our route with a proper ground up ascent. And thus Spoil Ill was born. We started early in the morning July 20 to beat the scorching heat of EWA, but an opportune cloud cover kept temps perfect for sending. Overall we found interesting and sustained face climbing on better than average rock for the Goose Egg. This great moderate route makes a fun alternative to Ride the Lightning or The Commandho Pillar. To all you Gooseeggafarians: Enjoy! So here's the beta: The route starts 100' feet to the left of Ride the Lightning. Take 13 draws and a very small rack — .4-2.5". The pitches spill out like this: P1: 130', 5.7, 9 bolts; Excellent and straightforward edgy face climbing with a short crux. P2: 100', 5.8, 7 bolts + gear; More fun face climbing following a seam that occasionally takes pro. P3: 100', 5.10c, 13 bolts + gear; Superb thin and sustained face climbing, very well protected with bolts on a LFC, contains a lower crux. A small roof is avoided by traversing right to a rest stance, then more tweaky face encountered above. Gear is optional in the last 15 feet. P4: 80', 5.9, 4 bolts + gear; Traverses left from the belay toward a small roof. Establishing under the roof and clipping the 2nd bolt is the crux. Easy climbing above leads up and left to a false anchor. Clip this, and continue up the corner 15 feet, then climb out left up a dirty crack with a hidden bolt on the left face. 3 spread-out bolts make the belay. P5: 150', 5.10a, 7 bolts + gear; Climbs out left then up a gully system, out right onto a face, then back left into the gully. One run-out easier section (probably needs another bolt) is encountered. p6: 150', 5.0, gear; a pleasant and easy gully is followed straight up to the top, where it ends in a typical pile of loose blocks. Exit left to intersect the trail down to the rappel route, or continue up to walk off. And here are some pics: Looking up at the first 3.5 pitches of Spoil Ill from the base. Follow the bolts! Me leading the first pitch with really cool roofs above. Stoney setting out on pitch 2. Me leading pitch 3 — the highlight of the route. Looking down from the top of pitch 3. The route comes up the dark gray rock below. Stoney coming up the upper crux of pitch 3. Stoney leading through the roof on pitch 4. Me poking my head over the same roof. The Ride the Lightning dihedral can be seen across the face. Looking down from the top of pitch 5. Top-out views of Kloochman Rock. An overview of the routes on the Egg. Click here for larger version.

.5 Camalot with Trango Superfly biner, plus BD quickdraw on last pitch. Would be great if you could get back to me, otherwise, enjoy the booty. Edit: Looks like cam is stuck for a while. Hopefully it will come out someday...

Hey Sobo, Stoney and I were out on it over 3 weeks ago. There was no snow to speak of on the entirety of the Egg. Rock was dry (besides a snow squall that came and went) and temps were nice. Because it's south facing and well east of the crest, it tends to dry out very quickly. For this reason, it's been climbed every single month of the year. Go get some!

Check out these short video clips from the climb: [video:vimeo]10827427 [video:vimeo]10827842 [video:vimeo]10827886

Cool thnaks. We stayed far to the right of the ice cliff. We were never in danger of it.

Had some fun in Nepal this winter. David Gottlieb and I made the first peak ascent of Takargo (6,771 meters) in the Rolwaling Himal. In addition to the peak we got to do a bunch of ice-climbing and live in a small Sherpa village. We pretty much had a fantastic 2-month trip. If you'd like to see more pics and read about the adventure, check out our blog: www.climbnepal.blogspot.com Here's a couple shots from the trip: Takargo from the East: David leading some ice up high: David leading below the summit ridge: Crossing the summit ridge to the summit:

Found some cool ice in Nepal: Y'all should go get some. More at http://climbnepal.blogspot.com/2010/03/rolwaling-ice-climbing-asias-beyul-of.html

Cilo's are awesome. Here are two overloaded 45L's ready to go for an 8 day adventure. Quite comfy all things considered. Wore the pack for nearly 45 days straight with no major complaints other than carrying a pack for nearly 45 days straight. The fit for both of us was spot on. David had a large (he's tall - 6'2" with long torso) and I a medium, and with lighter loads we could easily swap packs. They just seem to fit no matter what the exact size. There doesn't seem to be a lot to adjusting the fit of the packs; for us they were pretty much good to go when we got them.

Cool, Thanks guys. No, there was very little snow. It was a very dry winter in Nepal. Most of the peaks were showing tons of blue ice. Our climb of Kyajo Ri was all ice, when we expected mostly snow. Also, the cornices faced north. Rockfall was the major concern. Yes it works with ropes that are maybe <8.5 mm. We had Sterling 8.4's, which worked great for this. I've tried it with 8.6's and it was tough, but it probably depends on the rope.

Trip: FA of Jobo Rinjang, Nepal - Date: 5/5/2009 Trip Report: Hey all, David Gottlieb and I just had a fun adventure in the Himalaya of Nepal. We spent 40 days out and about, first on a cool acclimatization trek, then a climb of Kyajo Ri, then finally our efforts turned toward the unclimbed 6,778-meter Jobo Rinjang. Check out a full account of our adventures on our Climb Nepal Blog. Here a few images from the Jobo Rinjang climb: Approaching Jobo Rinjang: Our line up the south face: A couple shots of David climbing On the summit:

Hope to see you all there tonight!

Hey, thanks for the replies. I'm finally back from Nepal and have had a chance to sort through a few more pictures. I've posted over 40 more images on my blog: www.climbnepal.blogspot.com. Check em out. Here are a couple to share here: Nepali Children in the small town of Jagart on day 2 of our approach. The Sherpa settlement of Beding. Gauri Shankar and the Rolwaling Valley - Beding can be seen at the base of the peak to the right of the river. David on the summit of Parchamo. A porter heading over Tesi Laptsa Pass.