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[TR] Leavenworth - Fun Fatty Ice 12/20/2009


AlpineMonkey

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Trip: Leavenworth - Fun Fatty Ice

 

Date: 12/20/2009

 

Trip Report:

Found an excellent gully route right off the Icicle Rd today. I believe Mark S., Curt H., and maybe some others first did this route a year or two ago. I'm not sure what the name of it is, but its excellent fat climbing (easy) for quite a ways. Approach as you’re going to The Sword bouldering area, but immediately take a left past the first boulder off the Rd. Walk 10 min. to base of climb and climb your little heart away. We climbed it in a series of 6 steps, the majority being Grade 2, then at the top I chose to take a 3 variation, but one could easily make it easier if they wanted.

 

We soloed all the pitches except the last one. Lots of ice!

 

The wife on some easy ground:

 

DSCN4870.JPG

 

Finally caught up to the speed demon, what a pretty gully up ahead!

 

DSCN4880.JPG

 

Making it a little harder just for fun:

 

DSCN4887.JPG

 

Go Down Notes:

Topped out to find a sketch piton in the rock that someone rappeled off of. It easily came out in my hand, so we walked down, climbers right.

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Climbed this yesterday. Its still well in, but its thinned out a LOT from the pictures posted at the top of the thread. The WI3 at the top is still climbable, (although we didn't do it,) but it has water running down the surface at a pretty good rate.

 

A nice fun gentle route though. This thing have a name?

 

-D

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Yes, Craig, it does look vaguely familiar, although what Mark and I climbed was nowhere near that FAT. This is a superb season so far, and the temps for the next tent days indicate it should get nothing but better for a while. Keep those TRs coming! Always easier to expand the ticklist when ya got lotsa help!!!

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Leave the Icicle road .3 mi. past 8 Mile road. There will be an obvious boot track heading up by the underwear boulder.

This would be the summer approach to bathtub dome or condorphamine. There are several short steps on the way up but the climbing in the picture is abouy 30 minutes up the hill. Lots of ice in the Icicle, get it now before climbs like this get buried by upcoming snow.

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We were there this last weekend. There is a little pull off with a 'no camping' sign on a tree on the opposite side of the road. There is a good trail in the snow up to the base. Its been getting climbed by at least a party per day for the last week. We had a blast- my dog even enjoyed the snow ramp sections. Good anchors at the top of the pitches if you are protecting it, although I agree that the last fall is the only one that truly requires it. When you down climb right, you can look up gully to see another large fall forming. We didn't climb it due to time of day. Enjoy!

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