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[TR] Goode - NEB 7/24/2016

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Trip: Goode - NEB


Date: 7/24/2016


Trip Report:

Brief Story:


I climbed NEB July 24.


Glacier is chill and transition onto rock was too. Walked right on.


Great climbing on the ridge.


I had a bad rappel session, when I (perhaps?) rapped the wrong gully off the summit. I went down the first one I came to - There was tat and a ring. This put me into a bad rock gully with shitty piton anchors. I was hit by a rock pulling the rope and coreshot the rope as well. Ended up rapping off a piton that I removed easily and reset with my Raven. After a second rap i got to steep snow and continued down the couloir, which was the correct area to be in. This area seemed dangerous and I hope it isn't the standard rap route - any info would be appreciated.


Challenging to find the Park Creek Trail. Give yourself extra time.


Theres a snow patch at the 8800' bivy, should you need it. Should be there for a couple weeks I think.


What a beautiful place!



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Did you rap right at the end of the "dirt ledge"? If so, yes, you rapped too high in the gully, along with whoever put the tat in. We removed one from there a few years ago so it's not an unusual mistake. From what I can remember, you cross the dirt ledge to the "Black Notch" and then descend 100' of third and fourth class terrain (skiers left) to the next rap station located well into the gully.

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Yeah thats what probably happened. I must have gone for the first thing I saw rather than continue down farther to the Black Notch.

Hope someone else this will cut all that junk out to remove the attractive nuisance.

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We descended Goode after climbing the NEB on Wed, 7/27.


From the summit, we made three raps back down the summit prominence to the skier's right of the route, passing by a pillar and then trending even harder skier's right to end at a webbing ladder below a slab -- the ladder brings you down to a short foot path to the Black Tooth Notch and you can stay on rappel to reach secure footing on the path, using the ladder to assist.


From the end of this path, there's a short step down 5', where a large boulder has an obvious rap station on the left. A direct rap (slightly skier's left) led to a sandy sloping ledge with another station. The second rap from the notch was directly down a full 30m to a small alcove. A third rap brings you down into the (currently snow-filled) gully. From there, we scrambled down rock rather than using the short-lived snow ribbon.

Edited by andybob

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