Kautz / Fuhrer Finger Conditions? Lower Nisqually?

[bleuespere]

Any beta on the conditions of Kautz or Fuhrer Finger as of this past month? Haven't seen any recent trip reports.

 

Also wondering how conditions are in lower Nisqually and if people usually rope up, or don't bother.

 

Thanks in adv!

[PuckerJunkie]

The lower Nisqually was super mellow the few times I've been on it. Both times was late season with everything open and if you just shoot directly across to that snow gully, they will all likely be step-overs. Going across a little higher will be more fun though.

 

In any case, you'll be able to see your route very clearly from the ridge and make an informed decision then.

 

Keep in mind though, when deciding whether or not to rope up, its always important properly estimate the badass point penalty you may incur:)

[kurthicks]

I just came off the Kautz two days ago.

 

The Nisqually has two good crossings right now. The first is basically an even contour from the head of the moraine below Glacier Vista. Cross towards The Fan until close to the rocks and go straight up. Option two is to do a rising traverse across some cute little crevasses towards the Wilson gully. Both are pretty straightforward, but I would certainly rope up.

 

The ice pitches received about a foot of new snow last week. The lower step was entirely walking and only needed one tool. No ice to speak of on that step. The upper step was mostly snow, but we did one long pitch up the steepest and iciest bit. This will change with the warm weather this week, but all told it was in the easiest conditions that I've ever done it in the past ten years.

[BLarsonFL]

Thank you for the info. QQ, how was the fan? We are coming out the 2nd week of July. We hope to approach the Kautz via the fan rather than the long haul up from Comet Falls again.

[kurthicks]

I tend to go up via the Wilson, rather than the Fan. That said, the Fan has't been subjected to very much rockfall yet given the recent snows...that will change as it warms up and melts out more.

 

If I had the choice, I would approach via Comet Falls all the time. It's nice to approach via a different route and see new terrain.

[BLarsonFL]

Thank you I appreciate it. Yeah the last 2 years we have gone up via Comet Falls. Would rather not do the long scenic route again. Again appreciate it.