psm Posted January 15, 2003 Posted January 15, 2003 Anyone have any thoughts on the Tecnika Altitude plus boots versus the Spotiva Nepal extremes. I will need them for Rainier this spring and Cotopaxi next yr. My leaky asolos have always been a little cold but ok in the New Zealand summer climbs around Mt. Cook. never gets much below -5c. Peter Ps. Living in Hawaii is great but difficult trying to plan a cold mountain trip as its always warm over here. Quote
freeclimb9 Posted January 15, 2003 Posted January 15, 2003 Tecnica Altitude Plus boots aren't leather. But they are great boots for me. Many manufacturers make great boots. Get the ones that fit. Quote
rbw1966 Posted January 15, 2003 Posted January 15, 2003 I agree with freeclimb. I think the single most important factor in choosing a boot is fit. I used Makalus on Rainier and Coto just fine. As a matter of fact I am getting rid of them if anyone is interested. They may still have a few miles left in them. Size 10.5-11. Quote
Dustin_B Posted January 15, 2003 Posted January 15, 2003 Never tried the Tecnika Altitudes but I have the Nepal Extremes. They are great boots, but expensive (if you pay retail) and heavy, almost 5-lbs. Very comfortable right out of the box with a very minimal break in period. Very comfortable for short to medium length approaches. Not comfortable for longer trips though (>30 miles round trip). (I wore only the Nepal Extremes when I did Olympus and I won't do that again). My feet have not been cold in them yet but I also haven't been in temps colder than 15 or 20 F in them. Any boot can be warm at those temps with thick socks. They hold up really well over all. I would recommend them. Quote
ryland_moore Posted January 15, 2003 Posted January 15, 2003 If you are dead set on leathers, that is fine, but I definately preferred having plastics on Cotopaxi as well as other mtns. in the Andes. I am sure Nepal Extremes would be fine, but why shell out the big bucks? I just find plastics more comfortable and warmer. May be a mental thing as well. Quote
Nick Posted January 15, 2003 Posted January 15, 2003 I use a lighter Tecnica boot that I like very much (called the Bio Flex "ascend" or some such name; they are classed as a hiking boot but I use them for climbing. They are great but can be a bit cold on long snow slogs like Rainier). The altitude plus seems like a very good boot for a long low volume foot like mine. The Scarpa fits a wider foot. All of the boots mentioned in the posts above are kind of stiff and clunky for long horizontal walks (expect blisters). I am very intrigued by The new boots Vasque has out this year. They are supposed to climb like leather and be as warm as plastic. One model is a single boot, the other is double. They are lighter than plastics and sound promising (if they fit well). Quote
rbw1966 Posted January 16, 2003 Posted January 16, 2003 If you are dead set on leathers, that is fine, but I definately preferred having plastics on Cotopaxi as well as other mtns. in the Andes. I am sure Nepal Extremes would be fine, but why shell out the big bucks? I just find plastics more comfortable and warmer. Plastics are nice on the higher mountains but when traveling in S.A. its nice to not have to lug around those clunkers. Thats why I opted for leathers while I was there, so they worked double-duty. I brought overboots as well but never felt the need for them. Aren't plastics generally more spendy then leather? I know my invernos were about 100 clams more than my makalus. I agree on the warmth factor with respect to plastics but more comfortable? My invernos are torture on approaches or lower-angled terrain--and quite a bit heavier. If all I was doing was climbing and didn't have to haul the plastics in a pack, I'd opt for the plastics but when weight and versatility is a factor I'll stick with leather. The never-ending debate between plastics and leather. Anyone try the scarpa alphas yet? Quote
ryland_moore Posted January 16, 2003 Posted January 16, 2003 Good point. It was osmething I was willing to deal with. When you say Makalu's are you referring to the grey ones? I typically would not trust this boot on anything other than mild glacier walks and no altitude. Maybe you have some strong feet, but I own a pair of Makalus and the only thing I use them for are on extended backcountry trips. They have never held a crampon that well for me and are not made for higher altitude or cold weather climbing. You dais you had overboots which was good, and I suspect you lucked out with weather, but I saw a guy down on Aconcagua with these boots and super gators on and he lost his toes to frostbite being stuck in a storm at 20,000 for 3 days. The Nepal Extremes and others of that calibur run around $400-$450/pair. These are leathers, but are constructed for cold conditions unlike the Makalu's and other leathers of the Makalu's calibur. I spent 6 months in S. America with plastics and never had any problems. I just had an extra pair of trail running shoes with me that I used on approaches for climbs. A buddy of mine actually did the entire walk into Aconcagua basecamp in his plastics! He even pulled off a sweet V4 boulder problem in them at 13,000'! I couldn't even do it it tennies! When it comes to footware and mountaineering, this is the last place you want to skimp (maybe other than glove systems) for the Andes. Yes, it can can be still and balmy at 18,000'. But do you want to have to turn around and head back down to the huts on Cotopaxi, Chimborazo, or Cayembe b/c you have cold feet? I say plastics or Nepal Extremes are worth their hassle of bulkiness and cost. Also, if you aren't going to climb the enitre time, you can leave your gear with the owner of the Youth Hostel you stay at. I did this with all my axes, boots, etc. While we wnt down to Bariloche to rock climb and do the Paine Circuit down in Patagonia. Quote
rbw1966 Posted January 16, 2003 Posted January 16, 2003 I was in Ecuador in Jan/Feb and used my Makalus (they are grey now but were a light brown out of the box) on Cayambe, Coto, and both Illinizas. No foot problems at all. Makalus are insulated although not as extensively as the Nepals but I think we're comparing apples and oranges there. In all the climbs I've done with my Makalus I've never had a crampon pop off, but then again, I've never had a crampon pop off period. Ever. Call me lucky I suppose. I took overboots; never used them. I used VB liners though. I chose the leathers for SA because I didn't want to have to cart around two different pairs of footwear to the climbs. I'd put on my Makalus when leaving Quito and take them back off when we got back from climbing. The other folks in my group had Nepals and did the same without problem. I like the versatility and weight considerations. Your buddy who did the approach in plastics and the V4 is an anomaly but truly my hero. I know I wouldn't want to do that. Egads the shinbang. Good point about leaving behind gear at the hostels. We did this as well when we went to the beach or cloud forests. I think we'll have to agree to disagree on the leather v. plastic debate. I'm not saying plastics are not worth taking. I have plastics and like them just fine. I think its good to explore either option when considering what it is you want to do. Hell, I'm taking my Invernos with me this weekend to Montana but generally speaking, if there is a long approach I use either my leathers or my T2's if I am skiing. Quote
psm Posted January 17, 2003 Author Posted January 17, 2003 Ok seems everyone has different opinions! I am looking at Trango Ice boots................Maybe they will be able to do everything. I was looking at the Altitue plus but the trango ice are a little lighter. Anyone had experiance with long walkings in these boots? I know that they should be warm. Just not sure on the flexability for walk ins. Quote
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