Piton Replacement

[pope]

Fatty's Roomy (or "partner" or whatever),

Based on my experiences, it requires a greater level of fitness to climb 5.11 moves through sections of dubious protection, where falls and hangs are not an option, than it does to boulder 5.12+ moves in between closely-spaced bolts (on each of which your average back-steppin', gri-gri grippin' sport dog customarily hangs...inspite of their, uh, fitness and courage). Also, I admire your desire to climb big numbers and establish new lines, but why can't you add to this personal quest the self-discipline required to respect the rock and STOP SHITTING ALL OVER IT WITH YOUR BOLTS? Wouldn't climbing new 5.12 routes in a rock/environmentally friendly manner give you twice the sense of accomplishment? It should.

[Retrosaurus]

not FAT KID,

You are SO fucked up. I bet you defecate behind Fat Kid's sofa. It's not your route; it's not your rock; it's not your call, you egomaniac.

[wdietsch]

My $0.02 for what it is worth.

Get a hold of Randall Green (I think he is still in the Sandpoint area) and his buddies who put the route up in the mid 80's and let him know that the pins that used to protect the crux have finally blown. I would give them (as the FFA crew) the courtesy of making the call.

When I did this route in about '89-90 (when I could climb .11b) these pins were bomber. I would imagine they have held quite a few falls since they were first put in. I myself put at least two falls on them and if I remember correctly my partner put one on them as well.

I just dug out my old "Idaho Rock" guide book by Randall. If you look at the beginning of chapter 7 for Chimney Rock on the top of page 73 Randal writes... "Fixed protection (bolts/pitons) may be encountered on some routes and rappel stations; please maintain them and leave them in place." I say give the man his wish or at least a phone call first before you did anything.

Wes

[This message has been edited by westerntk@aol.com (edited 10-03-2001).]