Jump to content

[TR] Vesper Peak - Ragged Edge 9/20/2014


Recommended Posts

Posted

Trip: Vesper Peak - Ragged Edge

 

Date: 9/20/2014

 

Trip Report:

This last Saturday, Lisa, Dylan, and I climbed Vesper Peak via "The Ragged Edge", a new route put up on the North Face about a year ago (Ragged Edge). We thought the route was an excellent addition to the area and is a much better option than the standard north face route. Great exposure! All pitches were well protected with a combination of natural pro, bolts, and some shinny new pitons. There is still some loose rock about, particularly on the last three pitches, but we cleaned up what we saw. The start of pitch 4 has a few huge detached blocks that I avoided pulling on, but they seemed pretty solid. Fortunately, the route trends to the right overall, so rockfall induced by parties higher up generally does not fall down the route. With a few more years, this route should clean up nicely. Surprisingly, there were two other parties ahead of us on the climb, so either we were unlucky or this route has already been getting a lot of traffic.

 

It's been a long summer, time to nap

15322399665_c28cd94b85_c.jpg

 

Starting up the superb flake on pitch 1

15135827858_dbdca9edf4_c.jpg

 

On the 1st pitch, we missed the bolted 5.7 slab section. Because the parties ahead of us were kinda slow, we rapped down to a ledge and did it right. This was some of the most fun and solid climbing on the route, glad we did it! Rapping down to do the slab...

15322147082_01fcf8dd95_c.jpg

 

Climbering.

15135918907_f0cf8eb3b2_c.jpg

 

Top of pitch 5

15322439275_a19b7e96a1_c.jpg

 

15299413906_86b17a2f27_c.jpg

 

The top-out involves a bit of heather

15135851538_89586e118e_c.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

60 m rope

We brought the recommended rack, but didn't really use all of it.

Posted

Cool. Glad to see it's getting lots of love. A few different parties I know climbed it over the last couple weekends and everytime shared it with at least one other party. So relatively speaking it's getting a lot of traffic.

 

Somewhat surprised you found loose rock on the upper pitches. I cleaned a lot of shit off. It's amazing how much loose rock you'll find on a seemingly solid face once you start removing vegetation and dirt.

Posted

You should set up a tolling system Darin. Now one of the most climbed alpine routes outside of WA pass and da Toof?

 

I better check it out before it gets too polished.

  • That's funny! 1
  • 5 years later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...