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Posted

That's good stuff to know. I currently have a strained/ruptured A2 pulley and it sucks. The deal it it hurts but not to much, so it's hard to not climb on it. Taping helps, but it only gives the tendon an 11% strength while climbing. according to that article I should tape it all the time, whick i'll start doing.

 

Does anyone know what happens when you fully tear the A2 pully? And what are the symptoms when your tendon "bowstrings"?

Posted

Are you just taping the injured digit? 'Cause DFA had a buggered A2 pulley for a while (not totally blown, but something was sure as shit wrong with it), and he had good luck buddy-taping to the adjoining digit. The best thing for it would be to take a month off, ice it, eat your anti-inflammatories, and see if that helps. Tweaking away on it ain't gonna move the healing process along.

 

If you completely rupture the pulley in question (or any pulley, for that matter), you will get bowstringing. Basically, your tendons are attached to various parts of your hand and fingers with the pulleys, through which the tendons slide (yeah, kind of like a pulley). Blow out one of the pulleys, and the tendon is then unsupported between the two pulleys nearest the damaged one. In the case of the finger pulleys, if you blow the middle pulley, the tendon will only be attached at your hand and at the knuckle furthest from your hand (that'd be the DIP, or distal interphalangeal joint, in case you're keeping track), and when you load it up, it will stretch straight from the hand to the DIP joint, like a bowstring attached to each end of a bow. Yuck.

Posted

When taping I will tape the pully and sometimes will buddy tape as well. I have taken time off, I think i'm somewhere close to two months now, though I did climb at Jtree, but crack climbing doesn't seem to bother it as much.

 

I think it's almost time to get back at it, though there will be copius taping.

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