Stuart Range Conditions and Questions

[dmdebruin]

A friend and I are venturing to the Cascades for a couple weeks starting 5/17. We have some folks joining us for a Mount Baker trip around Memorial Day weekend, but the two of us will have 4 or 5 days to climb some more technical objectives prior to that. Despite our current North Carolina residence, we both have a decent amount of alpine experience (technically, I have some experience and my partner has A LOT, but you get the idea).

 

We are psyched on some classic mixed climbing. The Triple Couloirs on Dragontail Peak and Stuart Glacier Couloir on Mount Stuart have both come highly recommended. To this end, I have a few questions:

 

1) I've seen quite a few Triple Couloirs trip reports/condition reports dated in late April. How do things look now? Thoughts on what they might look like in 2 weeks when we arrive?

 

2) Similar question, but for Mount Stuart, specifically the Stuart Glacier Couloir.

 

3) In general, how are conditions this year? Snowfall and depth? Snowpack? Any persistent nasty layers to watch out for? Spring sloughing starting/in progress/finished? Ice is in fat, or not so much?

 

4) How about the approaches specifically? How far up the road along Eightmile Creek is open? Do we need to bring skis/snowshoes for the hikes in to Colchuck Lake and/or below the Sherpa Glacier?

 

Finally, as I look at maps, it strikes me that a traverse could be pretty cool as well. I'm sure something like this has been done before and would love some input from knowledgeable parties. I was thinking maybe up Stuart Glacier Couloir, across Sherpa Peak, all the way over to Argonaut, over Colchuck, and down the Colchuck Glacier. Thoughts?

 

Many thanks in advance.

[Riley81]

I'm not sure anyone can give you good answers to any of your questions regarding conditions two weeks away right now. The cascades are quite variable in the spring months as was shown in a recent 20 degree jump in temps in one day, which has now plummeted back down to normal temps.

My only piece of advice would be to watch the weather for freeze-thaw cycles as that is how spring ice generally forms in the Enchantments. Both of those climbs are still considered "in" when you are here so it is worth the time and effort to head up and check them out as long as it is not too warm.

As for the road, it just opened up to the trailhead, and flotation is usually not necessary that time of year.

 

[max]

Do a TR search with "triple" in the route name... I got 4-5 on the first page that were from may. As the previous guy said, conditions change quickly around here, but that will give you some idea of what to expect.

 

I don't know if anyone has mentioned it or if you're already aware of it, but we're (NW'ers) are in the middle of a whacky avalanche setup... check it and know it. Probably will be mellowed out in 2 weeks, but might be worth some local insights the day or so before you head out.

[DPS]

1) I've seen quite a few Triple Couloirs trip reports/condition reports dated in late April. How do things look now? Thoughts on what they might look like in 2 weeks when we arrive?

 

2) Similar question, but for Mount Stuart, specifically the Stuart Glacier Couloir.

It depends on the weather, if it gets hot or what, but I suspect TC will still be in shape and SGC is almost guaranteed to be in shape. I've climbed both routes in April (can't remember early or late) and SGC again in MAy and had very good conditions.

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3) In general, how are conditions this year? Snowfall and depth? Snowpack? Any persistent nasty layers to watch out for? Spring sloughing starting/in progress/finished? Ice is in fat, or not so much?

This time of year you have to watch out for isothermal snowpack and climax avalanches. There are a number of trip reports indicating spring avalanches are definitely a concern. Conditions change so fast that it is not possible to give an informed answer at this time.

 

Precipitation started out a full standard deviation lower than the mean, but caught up by March and April has been quite wet. So, snow pack roughly normal right now.

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4) How about the approaches specifically? How far up the road along Eightmile Creek is open? Do we need to bring skis/snowshoes for the hikes in to Colchuck Lake and/or below the Sherpa Glacier?

 

I've done somewhere in the neighborhood of 30+ winter and spring trips into the Stuart Range and will never use skis again, unless it is specifically for skiing. This approach was made for snowshoes.

 

Conditions change quickly, so ask this question again a day before your trip before you make the decision to use floatation. Current Road conditions should be listed on the Wenachee Ranger District web site.

 

1)

Finally, as I look at maps, it strikes me that a traverse could be pretty cool as well. I'm sure something like this has been done before and would love some input from knowledgeable parties. I was thinking maybe up Stuart Glacier Couloir, across Sherpa Peak, all the way over to Argonaut, over Colchuck, and down the Colchuck Glacier. Thoughts?

 

Many thanks in advance.

I don't believe a traverse of the Stuart Range has been done in winter /early spring conditions, and I have thought about it for years.

 

I think you are on the right track :

 

North Side route on Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir/Ice Cliff Glacier/NW Face

 

An easy descent down the east ridge to Sherpa puts you at the West Ridge, which is fun, blocky rock climbing, most likely mixed at that time, but prolly fairly reasonable, along the lines of the West Ridge portion of the Stuart Glacier Couloir but longer.

 

Argonaut is the big question mark. I've done it twice in winter, and the easiest route is the NE Couloir. A true traverse, that is to say Argonaut via the West Ridge, would be very challenging. Lots of gendarmes and what not. Walking around to the north basin of Argonaut to access the NE Couloir would be easy at least, as all the nasty muskeg and slide alder is covered by snow.

 

Descending off of Argonaut, I have always rappelled the south face which sets you up nicely for an easy walk to the West Face of Colchuck. I know Klenke enchained NE Couloir of Argonaut and WF of Colchuck in early spring in a day, so it is very reasonable.

 

This information is all based on my historical knowledge, I haven't been out in the hills for the last month, but I suspect ice formation on high, north side routes (e.g. TC) will continue to improve if current weather patterns persist or at least until we get some sustained hot weather.

Edited May 3, 2014 by DPS