Rainier - Ptarmigan Ridge trip date suggestions?

[John Gassel]

I know the season to attempt this climb is pretty long with the best dates season usually ranging from May-July. Go earlier in the year for more snow and later in the year for more ice.

 

My preference would be for a trip the first week in July, but I had some friends find 'out' conditions last year on Liberty Ridge at that same time. Hoping to avoid that for this trip.

 

My impression is that we on the east coast have had a good winter and that out "west" has had a relatively light winter. That's a huge generalization and I'm hoping people with more local opinion can chime in as to how the winter has fared on Rainier compared to most other years.

 

Any input will be helpful and appreciated.

[DPS]

Been a low snow year this year, and each year seems to have earlier and earlier seasons for routes like Lib Ridge or Ptarmigan Ridge. I think the prevailing wisdom is to aim for a trip as soon as the White River road opens, typically Memorial Day WE, weather permitting. (Approaching from White River allows you to make an easy descent via Emmons without any car shuttle business.)

[AlpineK]

The winter here started out thin. Basically a little new snow at altitude then a long period of dry cold weather. In January few ski areas were open. Where there was snow it became an icy layer with hoar frost on top. When February rolled around snow started dumping.

 

Now we have a near normal snowpack, but risks of persistent deep slab avalanches are still present due to the January icy surface underneath. While human triggered you can see what I'm talking about in this video of a trashed ski lift at Crystal Mountain

 

Crystal Mountain Avy

 

In general terms I'd expect risks of big avalanches to continue as things warm up in the spring. June to mid July tends to be stormy-wet in most years, and rain adds weight to the existing snowpack.

 

You'll have to make the final call on what route to do, but snowpack history and weather trends are something to think about.

[hamballs]

The timing of this years snow fall has been a bit odd but the current snow depth at Paradise is above average. With the wet spring we're having, I'd guess the upper mountain this year will have a fair bit of snow well into July.

 

 

That said, my experience is that the conditions on the route will mostly be dependent on the weather leading up to your climb (new snow, melt/freeze, windy, etc.). If you are looking for a more probably weather window, later is better. The local knowledge around here is that summer (dry) starts July 4.

 

Good luck.