[TR] Broken Top - 11 o'clock couloir 11/30/2013

[bedellympian]

Trip: Broken Top - 11 o'clock couloir

 

Date: 11/30/2013

 

Trip Report:

Chris Sepic and I camped out near Broken Top Friday night with the intention of climbing anything besides exposed volcanic choss. We ended up climbing the 11 o'clock couli as it was the most obvious line "in condition". "Oregon High" lists the route as 500ft of 50 degree snow with the chance for near vertical snow in the last 10ft as you approach the cornice. The more recent "Best Climbs Cascade Volcanoes" lists the less helpful and more ambiguous rating of grade II, class 4-5, AI2.

 

There is minimal snow right now (Bachy lists ~18"). S face and low elev snow is 2-3" hard crust on top of sugar. NW face I saw at high elevations has windblown pow drifts and exposed rock. Lots of rock is still exposed on steep areas, esp S facing. There was rain, or some semblance of it at our camp (~7300') during the night and it appears that rain hit the snow as high as 8k'.

 

The good side of this is there was no cornice at the top and the neve was quite good. The bad side is we need a lot more snow here before the skiing is even remotely enjoyable, and we need a good freeze/thaw after that to put any of the climbing routes in shape.

 

We investigated the traverse to the NW ridge and the summit but unconsolidated snow drifts mixed with exposed scree/mud lead to a decision to turn around. I think this terrain was easily climbable safely but it would have taken some time. 11 o'clock is the recommended descent route on that side of the mountain so we just downclimbed the route.

 

My blog post with more info and pictures of the route and other possible routes in the crater: Mountain Mischief

 

Gear Notes:

Tools, pons, helmets. We brought screws, nuts, slings and rope since we really had no idea what would be out there but never used any of it.

 

Approach Notes:

Me: rando skis

Chris: slow shoes

Both work about equally well right now. We followed the cat track from Dutchman's Flat snow park.

[luvshaker]

Nice work! Some nice shots on your page. That route brings back some memories, it was one of my early climbs back in the day. When I did it there was a cornice that was pretty dang steep. That area around Broken Top crater is cool.

[bedellympian]

Glad you like the photos. I am always trying to figure out good winter alpine/ice routes to do in Central Oregon. Got any recommendations?

[luvshaker]

Two that come to mind not in the books are:

 

Judd Mountain. Road 5884 of of HWY 58. North facing 1800'chute. Some of the best ice, and steep climbing in the area. PM me for more info if you are interested. SO good, and a bunch unexplored.

 

Lakeview Mt above Odell Lake is a fun winter trip. Head out from the little resort on the SE side of the lake and follow the RR tracks for a little while.

 

In the book:

 

Thielsen in winter is always good.

Standard route on Mt Washington in winter goes.

NE face of Middle Sister. Haven't ever caught it in shape, but supposed to be good when it is.