[TR] Colchuck Peak - North Buttress Couloir 11/23/2013

[Riley81]

Trip: Colchuck Peak - North Buttress Couloir

 

Date: 11/23/2013

 

Trip Report:

Went up to find some early season ice this weekend in the Enchantments and was slightly disappointed. Not a lot of ice but some good mixed climbing was had. After a late night hike in on Friday night we settled in just before the boulder field at Colchuck lake for a few hours of sleep before a nice alpine start. Alarm beeped lightly at 4:30 AM and we were off by 5:30. The most treacherous part may have been the partly covered snow field on the way up to the moraine.

We came into the couloir from climbers right at the top of the moraine just missing what looked like a good ice flow at the very bottom of the coulior. Probably should have started lower. Climbing consisted of shin to waist deep fairly well consolidated snow with bare rock in the step areas. We pitched out the mixed rock step near the beginning and a little bit of spiciness at the start of the northwest face. Other then that it was a good day on steepish snow and bits of uncovered rock. Hit the summit around 1:00 and was back to the tent just before dark for a relaxing night before heading out on Sunday.

 

NE couloir of Colchuck looked doable with steep snow at the finish, most of Dragontail was uncovered so it would be mixed climbing the whole way. Very thin ice flows on the Cotter-Bebbie, very little visible ice on the Gerber-Sink.

 

Picture Time!

 

Sunrise over Colchuck Lake

 

Sunrise over Colchuck Glacier

 

Dragontail, Backbone ridge on the left.

 

Following the lower mixed rock step.

 

Starting out onto the Northwest Face

 

Cruising the NW face

 

Rock step on the NW face

 

Looking down on the rock step on the NW face.

 

A Little summit view

 

A Couple Summit Shots-

 

A good day was had by all.

 

Gear Notes:

Small rock rack, a few KBs, no screws or pickets were used.

 

Approach Notes:

Trail was very icy. Bring your micro spikes or pay the price

Road is still open.

[Tyson.g]

Rockin' it Riley!

[telemarker]

C'mon! Doesn't Jake the Brit get a shout out?!

[ARBrandon]

Nice work! Wish I could get up there more often.

[Riley81]

Jake is awesome to climb with. It only took me two days of climbing with him for him to almost kill me.

He was stoked to get past the lower rock step.

[telemarker]

Jake's one of a kind. But politely decline if he offers to take lead shots of you at Vantage.

 

Nice trip you guys!

[Woodcutter]

It only took me two days of climbing with him for him to almost kill me.

 

Ha, next time I'll hit you with something softer.

Excellent trip. Damn I was stoked all weekend long.

Jake