Forbidden West Ridge conditions in early october??

[JDCH]

Howdy-

 

Looking to head up to Forbidden weekend after next and give the west ridge a go. Anyone been up there recently? How was the glacier? How was the bergschrund?

Hoping October 5th wont be too late..

 

Thanks!

[lazzara]

Last I heard it snowed about a foot up there (9/23-24).

 

With sun the south side of the ridge might melt out but the north side will hold snow (unless we get rain up high?)

 

Another consideration is the 2nd pitch corner of the approach pitches might be wet and mungy for sometime.

 

On my last trip up there (9/19 - with about 3" on the north side)it seemed like you can climb large portions of the ridge directly on the crest or on the south side - maybe just a bit harder than the line most folks take that veers off to easier climbing on the north side of the ridge much of the way. Or crampons might help . . .

 

We gained the rock island on the west side about midway between the toe of the rock island and the top of the snowfield. Did a short rap in to the moat to a ledge below the gully. Picked up anchor at the end of the day. I'm sure a bollard would work too . . .

[genepires]

https://www.facebook.com/#!/photo.php?fbid=10151926843682938&set=a.410480422937.209825.206971122937&type=1

 

 

real frosty after the last storm came through. could all melt off quick though.