[TR] Longs Peak, Rocky Mountain National Park - Pervertical Sanctuary - The Diamond 8/20/2013

[cdmike112]

Trip: Longs Peak, Rocky Mountain National Park - Pervertical Sanctuary - The Diamond

 

Date: 8/20/2013

 

Trip Report:

I had the opportunity to climb the Diamond on Longs Peak on August 20th. We bivied at in the Chasm Cirque and started simul-climbing the North Chimney to Broadway at 5:30am. We arrived at the base of Pervertical and started climbing around 7:00am. We topped out on table ledge at 11:30am and then proceeded up Keeners to the summit of Longs.

 

In total we climbed roughly 1400ft, 600ft of that being the North Chimney and 6 pitches (800ft) on the Diamond proper.

 

Looking down the first pitch of Pervertical

The 5.11 crux pitch at 13500ft

The 180ft 5.10 OW pitch at the end of Pervertical

Another shot of the OW pitch

The 5.9 pitch to Table Ledge from the top of the Pervertical column.

 

Gear Notes:

Double Rack to a #4 Camalot, set of nuts, 10 runners

 

Approach Notes:

Approach via the Longs Peak trail to Chasm Lake

[Drederek]

I appreciate the pics, thanks. I've been curious about Longs for a few years now. The rock looks more like Washington granite than Yosemite.

[keenwesh]

pervertical ain't 5.11...

 

incredible route, incredible place. I love the diamond!

[cdmike112]

Newest guides call it 11a

[layton]

would wearing sticky rubber approach shoes tame the O/W a bit?

[Pete_H]

Lets have a 12 page thread about whether its 5.11 or not.

[layton]

reminds me of the Black Elk spraydown about the 5.11 O/W pitch. A full pitch of #4 camalots is 5.11 in my book unless you're Wayne Wallace and have balloon hands

[keenwesh]

the OW is 10a...

 

the crux pitch is old school 10c, kinda physical but never desperate and fully deserving of its 5 star rating.

[layton]

oh