[TR] Beacon Rock - Young Warriors 8/25/2013

[stevetimetravlr]

Great TR! Way to carry on in the rain. It's gets sketchy when it's wet, that slab gets slippery. I don't think kenny was trying to be a douche, he's not into feminine products that much that I know of. But maybe. Theres just lots of little secrets to climbing that route efficiently, Kenny knows em all. But then he didn't get the name Lostcam for nothing, but it's better the Brokeback which he had for a while. Besides,anyone that calls themselves Toddipoo shouldn't mind when folks make fun of them, it only gets worse. Way to fire up YW with the incoming storm. That's living!

[kevbone]

Such a great TR on such a classic Beacon line. If you want a little more adventure. I recommend doing all 5 pitches sans bolts, pitons or any anchor bolts. My partner and I did this last summer and called it the Boltless Warrior. It's a little heady at times but totally doable. Super fun.

 

Thanks for sharing.

[pink]

Such a great TR on such a classic Beacon line. If you want a little more adventure. I recommend doing all 5 pitches sans bolts, pitons or any anchor bolts. My partner and I did this last summer and called it the Boltless Warrior. It's a little heady at times but totally doable. Super fun.

 

Thanks for sharing.

 

Warning… Kevbone had climbed YW at least 100 times before his boltless assent.

[LostCamKenny]

AHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

I remember when my back was broken in a fall nearly 4 years ago and all I had was time to spend on cc.com. It was suggested by my friend Eric to polish my spray technique during my recovery, which I'm not really sure that I developed - probably because I don't brag about myself very well. Regardless, I learned during that period of non-climbing that devoting too much time to self-congratulation and [over]exagerated descriptions of mediocrity[as Gräfenberg-Spotter says] will make ones head proportionally too large to climb. My head is already big, not because I am a great climber but because I know when to vocalize my ego and let it get big. As a result, I have spent so much less time on cc.com and thus resorted to infrequent visits to all the forums. But whenever I do login I always check the gorge because it is my neighborhood area and the one with which I hold the most stock. Beacon is my favorite local place to climb and I take more ownership of it than many others because I am here each day from March through October. I'd say that I am local enough, even if I am mediocre. As such, any report I see (when I do login) here that says Young Warriors, SE Corner, Jill's, Gull, Dod's, Blownout, or any of the "less than full ropelength" routes immediately reels me in. 

 

Toddeeepooh, I would never think of getting a laugh at your expense (or anyone else for that matter) unless I had been guilty of something similar - man, I wish I had pictures of a few of my leads of Jill's or better yet Blownout to post right now.. Not only have I used a sewing machine on both routes, but I carried a spare! And yeah, I know all those above named routes pretty f-ing well so I feel well-qualified to EITHER poke a lil fun OR offer up a differing idea, regardless of whether or not I know the participants. Such is the nature of a public message board, and I have been a victim of both on cc in the past. It seemed logical to develop a thick skin for it. Perhaps your iSkin is a lil thin, hmmm? I mean, c'mon, this is the Internet. If this bothers you that much I'd avoid posting on cc anywhere because it is likely to happen on any forum. I don't say this to antagonize, but the fact that you took even a lil offense at my post tells me that you should blow off steam at Beacon more often. Clearly you aren't out there with my regularity or I'd probably know you better, or likely have shared a rope with you by now - always open to it.. Let's go!! And I assure you that I am just as fearful you or anyone.

 

And on the topic of the interweb posting habits of "self-appointed beacon locals and the 8 routes they climb" as stated by the snake captain, I'd like to point out that they are the same patterns as any of you other internet enthusiasts. If you (speaking to the serpent king) are so much different than the rest of us why don't you post with part or all of your real name instead of the gutless act of cowering behind your mirror-shrouded mask? Could it be because you, yourself, are just as good as the rest of us at tasting your own feet? Proly so. Maybe you should come out and climb Bluebird with me since you remarked that it needs more traffic. Or maybe one of your other seven routes... I'm game anytime I'm there. 

 

And why the hell does this TR have over 3500 views?!? That's not too many fewer views than the ENTIRE California TR section. Avy Lilly's pic of the pink bikini affair ain't even posted here. Must say something about Warriors... maybe the best 5.9 within a 4 hour's drive in any direction? Certainly it beats the shit out of the hardened ashtray that is anything at Smith Rock. What about that would be mediocre, G-spot? 

 

I think I should receive a little credit for not posting something lewd about pink bikini and her [trad] rack. 

 

Merry Xmas to all! 

xoxo

[denalidave]

AHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

I remember when my back was broken in a fall nearly 4 years ago and all I had was time to spend on cc.com. It was suggested by my friend Eric to polish my spray technique during my recovery, which I'm not really sure that I developed - probably because I don't brag about myself very well. Regardless, I learned during that period of non-climbing that devoting too much time to self-congratulation and [over]exagerated descriptions of mediocrity[as Gräfenberg-Spotter says] will make ones head proportionally too large to climb. My head is already big, not because I am a great climber but because I know when to vocalize my ego and let it get big. As a result, I have spent so much less time on cc.com and thus resorted to infrequent visits to all the forums. But whenever I do login I always check the gorge because it is my neighborhood area and the one with which I hold the most stock. Beacon is my favorite local place to climb and I take more ownership of it than many others because I am here each day from March through October. I'd say that I am local enough, even if I am mediocre. As such, any report I see (when I do login) here that says Young Warriors, SE Corner, Jill's, Gull, Dod's, Blownout, or any of the "less than full ropelength" routes immediately reels me in. 

 

Toddeeepooh, I would never think of getting a laugh at your expense (or anyone else for that matter) unless I had been guilty of something similar - man, I wish I had pictures of a few of my leads of Jill's or better yet Blownout to post right now.. Not only have I used a sewing machine on both routes, but I carried a spare! And yeah, I know all those above named routes pretty f-ing well so I feel well-qualified to EITHER poke a lil fun OR offer up a differing idea, regardless of whether or not I know the participants. Such is the nature of a public message board, and I have been a victim of both on cc in the past. It seemed logical to develop a thick skin for it. Perhaps your iSkin is a lil thin, hmmm? I mean, c'mon, this is the Internet. If this bothers you that much I'd avoid posting on cc anywhere because it is likely to happen on any forum. I don't say this to antagonize, but the fact that you took even a lil offense at my post tells me that you should blow off steam at Beacon more often. Clearly you aren't out there with my regularity or I'd probably know you better, or likely have shared a rope with you by now - always open to it.. Let's go!! And I assure you that I am just as fearful you or anyone.

 

And on the topic of the interweb posting habits of "self-appointed beacon locals and the 8 routes they climb" as stated by the snake captain, I'd like to point out that they are the same patterns as any of you other internet enthusiasts. If you (speaking to the serpent king) are so much different than the rest of us why don't you post with part or all of your real name instead of the gutless act of cowering behind your mirror-shrouded mask? Could it be because you, yourself, are just as good as the rest of us at tasting your own feet? Proly so. Maybe you should come out and climb Bluebird with me since you remarked that it needs more traffic. Or maybe one of your other seven routes... I'm game anytime I'm there. 

 

And why the hell does this TR have over 3500 views?!? That's not too many fewer views than the ENTIRE California TR section. Avy Lilly's pic of the pink bikini affair ain't even posted here. Must say something about Warriors... maybe the best 5.9 within a 4 hour's drive in any direction? Certainly it beats the shit out of the hardened ashtray that is anything at Smith Rock. What about that would be mediocre, G-spot? 

 

I think I should receive a little credit for not posting something lewd about pink bikini and her [trad] rack. 

 

Merry Xmas to all! 

xoxo

You've come a long ways... I remember it taking you a couple hours to lead the first pitch of Dod's. Some of the lowest hanging fruit there. Meantime, I've gone a long way in the other direction. Spray on sprayers! Whatever you do, DON'T PUT CAMS IN THE CORNER ON THE SECOND PITCH OF THE CORNER, DAMNIT!!! Unless'n you like the name "Lost Cam Kenny." (or insert name as applicable)

[denalidave]

Such a great TR on such a classic Beacon line. If you want a little more adventure. I recommend doing all 5 pitches sans bolts, pitons or any anchor bolts. My partner and I did this last summer and called it the Boltless Warrior. It's a little heady at times but totally doable. Super fun.

 

Thanks for sharing.

 

Warning… Kevbone had climbed YW at least 100 times before his boltless assent.

But it's boltless! Not to mention, having Arnt as a partner is AID!!!

[pink]

Such a great TR on such a classic Beacon line. If you want a little more adventure. I recommend doing all 5 pitches sans bolts, pitons or any anchor bolts. My partner and I did this last summer and called it the Boltless Warrior. It's a little heady at times but totally doable. Super fun.

 

Thanks for sharing.

 

Warning… Kevbone had climbed YW at least 100 times before his boltless assent.

But it's boltless! Not to mention, having Arnt as a partner is AID!!!

 

…and once you have climbed it SANS bolts and pins…i highly recommend climbing it SANS harness and tied in around the your neck with a noose It's a little heady at times but totally doable. Thewper FUN

[denalidave]

Thanks fawker, I just soiled my keyboard w coffee shooting out my nose...

[denalidave]

I heard Crazy Ken used to solo it a lot. Ballz!

 

Not sure if it counts unless he had a noose around his neck though...

[stevetimetravlr]

The return of Kenny! Don't worry Kenny, you brag very well on yourself. Hey man, still lots of climbing at Beacon left to do this season, as evidenced by the climbing this week.

yeah, once you gdo YW a few times and get it wired, it ain't no big deal. Only tricky section on trad gear is where the pins are on the 3rd pitch IMO. If you fall there, you are going to hit the ledge, I always feel a little uncertain on that section until I get the handhold up high. kevbone is a crusher, so he has no problem with it Im sure. Seems to me Little Wing has a higher sketch factor then YW, as Little Wing is rounded and slick.

Denali Dave, you stuck up on a windmill somewhere? or do you need to have it surgically removed?

[LostCamKenny]

Seems to me Little Wing has a higher sketch factor then YW, as Little Wing is rounded and slick.

IMO... LW ain't rounded, but it is slick in places.. Maybe thanks to pink's endless noose-around-the-neck ascents. And slick is still not quite the right word - more like smooth. But even where the crack edges are "slick" the locks are sweet. It is quite foot-intensive, though. 3rd pitch of YW? All ya need is a good ape index - but I can understand how it might feel trickier to those without the reach of Ivan or myself.

[denalidave]

Denali Dave, you stuck up on a windmill somewhere? or do you need to have it surgically removed?

I home till Jan 2nd, then back to Palm Springs to finish a job.

 

LCK told me I'm climbing w you 2moro... Then hit the outdoor hot tub at Skamania Lodge. Or bivy. Or both.

[kevbone]

3rd pitch of YW? All ya need is a good ape index - but I can understand how it might feel trickier to those without the reach of Ivan or myself.

 

I got to lead the third pitch on Arent and I's ascent of the boltless warrior. It was very heady.....basically soloing. Better sack up

[pink]

3rd pitch of YW? All ya need is a good ape index - but I can understand how it might feel trickier to those without the reach of Ivan or myself.

 

I got to lead the third pitch on Arent and I's ascent of the boltless warrior. It was very heady.....basically soloing. Better sack up

 

 

are sacks even necessary on a 5.8

[LostCamKenny]