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Trip: Argonaut Peak - South Route

 

Date: 6/8/2013

 

Trip Report:

My friend Rod and I wanted to climb Argonaut and cross another peak off the 100 highest list. We decided to try the South Route with an approach via Beverly Creek to Fourth Creek. You can't see Argonaut until just about the Boundary junction. IMG_00903.JPG The trail is quite nice until you drop down into Fourth Creek basin, when creek and trail are often the same. A fording of Ingalls Creek is needed (about thigh high) to reach camping near the Ingalls Creek trail. We headed East about 250 yards to just before a small creek(I left a cairn) and headed North by Northwest up game trails through forest. At approx. 5200 feet we bashed through slide alder and crossed a small creek (there is an overgrown game trail that is easier to find coming back)and headed up the ridge west of a major drainage gulley from the summitIMG_01642.JPG At about 6200 feet we dropped into the gulley and headed up snow to about 7100-7200 feet where the gulley forks. There were tracks taking the right gully from the previous day (which we took on the way down), but we went up the left fork until we got onto rock leading up to the East Ridge. A gully/chimney at 8200 feet is the "crux"...4th class chockstone with a convenient rap sling. A short 3rd class scramble east leads to the West/Main summit block.IMG_01762.JPG We went under the leaning block and scrambled to the top. We enjoyed our traditional Ritter Sport and enjoyed the views.IMG_01841.JPGIMG_01793.JPGIMG_01801.JPG We saw a couple climbers over on Colchuck...the only people we encountered since leaving the trailhead. We found the snow pleasantly softer on the way down and plunge-stepped most of it back to the ridge where we started and headed back to camp. It was a fun climb...except for the alder bashing (only a few hundred feet worth) and fording frigid Ingalls Creek. A small price for the awesome viewsIMG_01713.JPG

 

Gear Notes:

Helmet, Ice axe and crampons...welcome on the firm snow gulley in the morning...it was steeper than I was expecting.

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Posted

Nice report. we did the same route yesterday, did it in a day. Saw in the summit register that you lost your crampons. When we got back down to the Ingalls Creek trail one of our group realized he dropped his jacket and decided to go back and look for it with another in our group. The other two us headed to the car. Anyway they found his jacket and I believe he said he found your crampons as well on the jacket mission.

Posted

That is great. My friend Rod will be happy (his crampons) We figured he lost them in the slide alder. It made the hard snow a little sportier...I chopped and kicked steps for him on the way up. We actually found someone's jacket on the other side of the slide alder. It must hunger for gear. Your climb in one day is more impressive...well done!

Posted
That is great. My friend Rod will be happy (his crampons) We figured he lost them in the slide alder. It made the hard snow a little sportier...I chopped and kicked steps for him on the way up. We actually found someone's jacket on the other side of the slide alder. It must hunger for gear. Your climb in one day is more impressive...well done!

 

How many have you bagged now on the Bulger?

Posted
That is great. My friend Rod will be happy (his crampons) We figured he lost them in the slide alder. It made the hard snow a little sportier...I chopped and kicked steps for him on the way up. We actually found someone's jacket on the other side of the slide alder. It must hunger for gear. Your climb in one day is more impressive...well done!

 

Was it a blue jacket? I carried that out. Was a long day. Left the car at 6:30 and back at car at 8:00 (9:15 for the two who went back to look for his jacket).

Posted

Yes it was blue without a hood. We had seen tracks going in, so didn't know if the owner would be coming back to get it, so I put it up in a bush so it would be easily seen.

Posted

Shoot me a PM, I have Rod's pons.

 

Argonaut sure likes the gear!. 2 jackets, 1 set crampons and bag, 1 pack, 1 headlamp and a single boot were all found along the route yesterday.

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