CascadeClimber Posted February 8, 2013 Posted February 8, 2013 Just curious how crowded the hut might be Saturday night and whether there might be some other folks to help break trail to the Ledges Sunday morning Quote
JasonG Posted February 8, 2013 Posted February 8, 2013 TWO winter ascents in the same year??!! Inconceivable! I wish I could enjoy the window approaching....Sigh. Stay safe and write it up! Quote
KaskadskyjKozak Posted February 8, 2013 Posted February 8, 2013 There will be hundreds up there. You'll hate it! ;-) Quote
CascadeClimber Posted February 8, 2013 Author Posted February 8, 2013 Gotta try to get the February monkey off my back. Quote
CascadeClimber Posted February 10, 2013 Author Posted February 10, 2013 I thought I was going to have the hut to myself for a while yesterday. I was joined by 5 or 6 Russians and a Spaniard, and until four others showed up at dusk, I was the only person in the hut for whom English was a first language. Ripping winds calmed overnight and I walked out of the hut at 5:00 AM very optimistic. The Spaniard left at 2:00 AM and two others maybe thirty minutes behind me. Peak winds for the previous 24 hour period at Muir were, invconveniently, between 5 and 6 AM this morning: 57 MPH. With skis on my pack I was repeatedly stopped in my tracks climbing up along Cowlitz Cleaver, where it is usually fairly calm. More than once I was knocked off my feet entirely. The wind settled as I neared the shelter of Gib Rock. I sat at the notch where the Ledges start for as long as I could take the cold, watching plumes of snow blow over Gib Rock and down Gib Chute. This visual was punctuated by the constant jet-engine sound it was making. Long streamers of moisture condensed out of the air tailed across the Cowlitz, blowing through Cadavar Gap. With numb fingers and toes, I gave up after about a half hour of waiting for it to break. The Spaniard's tracks continued across the Ledges, but I never saw him on the upper mountain. I was back in the parking lot at 9:20 smirking at the rapidly improving weather. It still wasn't calm, but it was a whole lot better than it had been at 6:00 AM. Alas. Quote
Al filo Posted February 11, 2013 Posted February 11, 2013 Hi, here the Spaniard.... I left the hut at 02:30 alone, as my partner was not feeling well, as you know until the ledges the wind also made me fall several times and I was thinking to bail, but, as I never did the route before and showing up at the ledges the wind calmed, I decided to continue, the ledges were in good shape and without wind, but at 12,600 came back the hurricane, I had hard fight against the elements, I was feeling good, but the wind took me down several times. At 13,000, at 08:00 I decided to finish my fight and descend. Quote
KaskadskyjKozak Posted February 11, 2013 Posted February 11, 2013 Hi, here the Spaniard.... I left the hut at 02:30 alone, as my partner was not feeling well, as you know until the ledges the wind also made me fall several times and I was thinking to bail, but, as I never did the route before and showing up at the ledges the wind calmed, I decided to continue, the ledges were in good shape and without wind, but at 12,600 came back the hurricane, I had hard fight against the elements, I was feeling good, but the wind took me down several times. At 13,000, at 08:00 I decided to finish my fight and descend. Nice. Good way to perservere... and backdown as well at the right time! Quote
CascadeClimber Posted February 11, 2013 Author Posted February 11, 2013 Excellent! Very glad to hear you made it down safely and it was a pleasure to meet you and follow your tracks this morning! Quote
Al filo Posted February 11, 2013 Posted February 11, 2013 Nice to meet you too. Also I was waiting about an hour before to decide to pass through the ledges or to get down... I hope to see you again in the mountains, or in your next winter climb to the Rainier, I have a pending bill there....(I like to finish waht I start) Quote
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