CascadeClimber Posted January 13, 2013 Posted January 13, 2013 (edited) I soloed the North Face of Chair today. It's in excellent shape and the approach is as easy as I've seen it (I was 60 minutes lot to Thumbtack). A windless, sunny day and the only other climbers I saw were going up the descent gully. Where is everyone?? Notes: The first pitch, which is the crux, is in great shape and will take some short screws. Most of the rest of the route is neve, so pickets would work better. The upper part of the NE Buttress route looked to have a good bit of unconsolidated snow on it and no tracks at all. I was able to downclimb the entire descent- no rap required. Important: The schrund that forms at the start of the first pitch was entirely covered with just a little sag to note its location. The bridge isn't strong enough to hold a person, so use caution crossing. Go get on it! Edited January 13, 2013 by CascadeClimber Quote
laurel Posted January 14, 2013 Posted January 14, 2013 Apparently everyone wanted to climb it on Sunday. There are probably a handful up there at this moment (we gave up our place in line at 2). Quote
alpine et Posted January 14, 2013 Posted January 14, 2013 yeah, very busy. I believe we were second in line, but weren't sure if we were really going to have a go at it (a little over our head) so we checked out the route, let those behind us get on and traded in for the consolation prize... chunky variable snow on the north face to snow lake. Conditions on the approach held great snow in the AM, but rather sun effected my PM. Here's a shot of the beginning of first pitch. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/uploads/22119/20130113-IMG_5242.jpg[/img] Quote
CascadeClimber Posted January 14, 2013 Author Posted January 14, 2013 Any chance we could get a bigger version of this? I can't quite make out the brand of ice screw placed halfway up the pitch. Glad some folks got on it today, and that I had it to myself yesterday Quote
Al filo Posted January 14, 2013 Posted January 14, 2013 We climbed yesterday, second on the line, after the team above which decided to give up waiting, after us another team finished at night (waiting at the tree of the second pitch due to the ice falling). The first pitch is the only one where you can use ice screws, (recommended short), third and last pitch with inconsistent snow, possibilities for rock protection. Crusting and swimming in the snow with difficult protection to the col cornice. Pleasant day for summiting late in the day, gorgeous day and views. Other two teams, at least, gave up, yes too many people there on Sunday. Quote
Dane Posted January 21, 2013 Posted January 21, 2013 Pretty sure this dude was giving me the finger today Quote
powderhound Posted January 21, 2013 Posted January 21, 2013 Craig is never happy when he climbs.... Quote
laurel Posted February 2, 2013 Posted February 2, 2013 If you got on the NE Buttress on Sunday (the 13th) I may have pictures of you: http://www.flickr.com/photos/laurelfan/sets/72157632674866462/with/8439414222/ Quote
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