Building Ice Anchors (for newbs)

[Newman55]

Been reading Will Gadd's book on modern ice and mixed climbing technique.

 

He recommends practicing abalakov and ice anchor building on frozen lake ice to get a feel for it. I guess this would be helpful for practicing the angle of entry for ice screws in v-thread construction, but I am interested to hear opinions on how helpful/useless this would be in learning to build strong ice anchors.

 

Also open to other suggestions for practicing anchor construction on ice, (other than hiking into an actual route and building anchors) - only one criteria: i don't want to pay for it.

 

Thanks!

 

[Alex]

V-threads are used in situations where there is enough ice eg multipitch *and* no natural anchors, and there is enough ice eg thick enough. Neither of these two criteria is typically met on ice climbs in the PNW outside of Lillooet area.

 

(I also think if you found a lake frozen enough to practice on, you could probably find a real climb to practice on.)

 

1) You really do need enough ice to create a proper v-thread. A lot of climbs in the Cascades won't be of the quantity or quality where v-threads come into play.

2) v-threads are often used when there are no other good options, eg no trees. I've almost exclusively used them climbing in the Canadian Rockies, and in the Lillooet area on the larger multipitch climbs. I don't use v-threads much in Leavenworth, for example: tons of trees around.

 

My suggestion would be go practice REAL v-threads, including rapping off them, at the Rambles or Marble in Lillooet, or at Canmore Junkyards or some other practice area in Banff. Once you've practiced them there, in these kinds of settings, you'll have an idea for how you might get off something like Weeping Wall if you get in over your head....

[CaleHoopes]

A really good place for practicing V-threads and anchors is the lower Coleman in the summer. The ice there is pretty good for setting screws and there is more than enough beginner terrain to get comfortable with your anchor building. The first V-thread I've ever rapped off was there this summer and it held great. Built a TR anchor and a few others too. Was very happy with a day out.

 

Granted - this was all in October. It seems like most of the ice here in WA or PNW has sufficient spots for natural anchors. Learn a ton? Go to CO, MT, WY, or Canada for better experience. And if you're just starting out - go take a class.

[keenwesh]

the only place I've used V threads regularly was during two days of climbing in Cody. Fortunately I'll get to use them a lot more next week as I should be in Cody for the majority of it!

[Farrgo]

FWIW I wouldn't venture away from the top-roping circuit without knowing how to fire in a thread. There are pretty much only two ways to extricate yourself from a bad spot when leading ice and that is down-climbing or setting a thread.

 

You won't be able to get far until you get basic ice skills down. If you don't know how to set a thread then figure it out whether that is on a frozen lake, at the base of a climb or with a block of ice in the sink. The only trick is figuring out how to angle the screws such that you don't make a 10cm thread with 22cm screws. Evaluating the quality of ice, etc. comes with experience and can't be replicated.

[obwan]

Frozen lake ice is fine for messing around with abalakov thread, but doesn't give a true perspective on your stance and rope setup. The advice stated above is all top notch, ie; it's not used much in washington where you have trees - but it is definitely a skill to understand; in case you have to bail. Sometimes you can find vertical neve like at snow caves to play around on - but as mentioned there is plenty to work with at Lillooet. Good luck in your adventures.