What boots do I need?

[CaleHoopes]

Granted, I've had my pair for over two years, but I have that colorization as well. I think it's just how they seal it. :-) Once you get the fit, I think you will be really happy with the boots. I'm at the point where the boots are ultimately so comfortable for me that when they get worn out I might attempt to get another pair. Probably definitely replace the liners before I get rid of them for sure. Good luck!

[AdventureRun]

Thanks, Cale! That's a bit of a weight off my shoulders.

[Mike12]

Does anyone ( Dane? ) has any idea how significant the ankle support gain would be with using a Baruntse inner boot in a Scarpa Phantom 6000? I bought the Phantom 6000 in spring and used in in Alaska this year on a lot of endurance ice ( Mt. Huntington West ). They where super warm, light and perfect in steep ice and mixed. They turned out to be complete calf killers in the 50 – 70 degrees blue hard ice part.

[JasonG]

complete calf killers in the 50 – 70 degrees blue hard ice part.

 

I'm not very experienced in the hard ice arena, but isn't that the definition of calf-killing terrain, no matter what the boot?

[CaleHoopes]

Mike12,

 

Dane has a good review of the Phantom 6000 and indeed says that the Baruntse liner will fit in the boot:

 

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/08/its-back-scarpa-6000-dbl-boot-and-2.html

 

From his blog:

The Baruntse has a more modern lace system on the inner. Hard to break or have a failure in that inner boot. The Baruntse is the easiest of the three to use and the most durable. It is the inner I think the Spantik should have been delivered with. It fits better and is lighter in weight. The lace system more closely mimics the Spantik shell system as well but no durability issue. Nice that my Baruntse inner will fit any of the 6000 outer boot. IMO the Baruntse inner is the best of the three for fit and ease of use. It weighs only 1/2 oz more (@6 oz) than the 6000's inner (5.5oz). The Spantiks' inner boot weights 9.0oz.

 

I also love the lacing system of the inner on the Baruntse. I will be giving it all another go at Ouray in a month's time. I can tell you that because the Baruntse liners are fairly flexible they should be BETTER than the Scarpa liners as far as the flexibility (I find mine very flexible and comfortable).

[Dane]

Does anyone has any idea how significant the ankle support gain would be with using a Baruntse inner boot in a Scarpa Phantom 6000? They where super warm, light and perfect in steep ice and mixed. They turned out to be complete calf killers in the 50 – 70 degrees blue hard ice part.

 

 

Not enough, sadly. But there is some. I use the 6000 and a Baruntse liner to drop as much weight as possible on my feet and may add soem warmth. But compared to the extreme end of things (plastic doubles/ AT boots) the 6000 doesn't offfer a lot of calf/ankle support. You aren't the only one to notice. Take a close look at what Steck does when he hits hard ice in the videos. I change my ice climbing technique a little in the lwt boots to save my legs and take as much advantage possible of the weight drop. But that is an acquired taste and not always possible. On endless, polished, baby ass smooth 60...anything is going to eventually be painful. Worse yet if you have much weight in your pack. I also have a pair of Spantiks (weight choice again over the Baruntse here) for when I know the weight drop isn't worth the extra effort and fatigue. And the extra support there a God send. Which is IMO just about any of the lower technical ice climbs in Alaska.

[Mike12]

Thxs Dane. Guess I have to pull out my old Koflach Arctic Expeditions from time to time or buy a pair of Spantiks.

[Dane]

Mike. sent you a PM.

 

Bottom line? I dropped down on the inner a full size (matched shell to stated liner size) and then intentionally over cooked them a bit to make the bootie really tight in the boot shell while fitting. Result was a a very tight and supportive boot. Much more so than the original Baruntse liner I fit.

 

Makes a pretty good endurnace ice boot now I think. Kinda suprised on the signifigant change in support. More to come on that change over and how it worked out in the blog later in the month.