Verticolorful Posted October 16, 2012 Posted October 16, 2012 Trip: Alpental Area - Improbable Traverse-GUYE PEAK & S. Face-THE TOOTH Date: 10/3/2012 Trip Report: With dangerous air quality hindering me from enjoying my local area, I chose to take a drive and enjoy some fresher air and new sights. A couple weeks ago at The Craggin Classic, I was talking to Chris (the guy who recently made the TR where everyone cried about bolting the IT), and I decided I neededto see what all the controversy was about for myself. Knowing that this single route would not satisfy Eric or my hunger for the alpine I decided to sneek in South Face of The Tooth as well. We met at snoqualmie ski resort at 6:30 then drove under the highway to stash erics car in the Alpental parking lot, which will end up being in the middle of our deproach from GUYE and the approach for the Tooth. After hanging out in the cars and joking about how cold it still was, we jumped out of my car parked on Ober Strasse roade around 7:20. We soloed untill midway up pitch 3, then desiced to rope up. At this point i might have gone slightly off route?? I climed an amazing corner crack that was mostly big hands for maybe 35 feet, but SO FUN. I made a belay on a smaller slopping ledge. My next pitch climbed slightly up then began the traverse, which I easily linked into one pitch. After gaining the slab ledge we unropped and scrambled to the top. Yes that was only two pitches of rope climbing.... So with that said. my two cents. Bolting the traverse would only require one or two bolts. ITS ONE PITCH. I brought a plethora of small cams and wires to see if I could connect the dots but didn't really have luck with that. I personally think the spice added the flavor to this otherwise bland route. We set up the gypsy kitchen in the Alpental parking lot as we re-caffeinated and ate some food. Over lunch we discussed what we would bring for The Tooth, and our final decision was to bring no climbing gear and down-climb the route. The rock on the tooth was pretty darn good and it was a great final lap for the day. We took some summit shots, reflected on an amazing summer then trotted back to Eric's car. What a fun day, Thanks Eric (and everyone else) for such an amazing alpine season! Best of luck wherever your travels take all of you, my friends. Gear Notes: Less is more. Quote
mhux Posted October 16, 2012 Posted October 16, 2012 Sounds like a fun way to end the summer! Guess the Nelson book doesn't have the final word on 'classics' after all... Quote
Verticolorful Posted October 16, 2012 Author Posted October 16, 2012 Yeah for the most part the Jim Nelson's Vol 1 is a great resource for fun climbs. It is kinda my goal to do all the climbs in Vol 1. This summer I did 15 of them and a handful from Vol 2. Quote
Eric T Posted October 17, 2012 Posted October 17, 2012 SJ, Thanks for the great day and the great TR! Quote
Captain panther Posted October 17, 2012 Posted October 17, 2012 nice work guys! sick routes! Verticolorful and eric, give adam a call, i lost your numbers when my phone died last month. Quote
Eric T Posted October 20, 2012 Posted October 20, 2012 Adam, What up Bro? I'm (425) 329-5167 or smithrock@gmail.com... I'm at Red Rocks till Nov 2nd come and climb!!!! Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.