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Posted

Some 'aspiring hardman' has been hard at work at Index lately. Several of the 'tougher' lines have lots of chalk on them and that's awesome: it's nice to see that all the harder climbs are getting mileage, but the tick marks that have appeared on every foothold, handhold or giant, obvious jug are whack. There's even 'foot dot' marks on Shirley, which is a stemming corner! WTF?

 

Go ahead and dab it up with your rookie stripes if that's what it takes for you to send your proj, but will you at least take the time to brush them off afterwards? Otherwise I'm going to do it and then you won't know where to put your feet the next time you try to go for the redpoint, bro.

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Posted (edited)

All the popular moderate stuff like shirley, jap gardens, etc, get all chalked up this time of year after a long dry spell like this. Go do Swim, technicians of the sacred, bobcat cringe, clay.

 

Guess all I'm saying is get away from the lower wall and the country, and you might get the advanture you're looking for. If you want to climb the lower wall at the end of the summer, you're going to have to deal with a lot of top rope tough guys hanging from their rope and tick tick tick. It's lame, but that's just a fact of life.

Edited by spiderman
Posted
Some 'aspiring hardman' has been hard at work at Index lately. Several of the 'tougher' lines have lots of chalk on them and that's awesome: it's nice to see that all the harder climbs are getting mileage, but the tick marks that have appeared on every foothold, handhold or giant, obvious jug are whack. There's even 'foot dot' marks on Shirley, which is a stemming corner! WTF?

 

Go ahead and dab it up with your rookie stripes if that's what it takes for you to send your proj, but will you at least take the time to brush them off afterwards? Otherwise I'm going to do it and then you won't know where to put your feet the next time you try to go for the redpoint, bro.

 

I've always thought this kind of post was rooted in egotism.

 

Hasn't rained in 2 months. Don't worry, it'll all be washed away in a couple weeks.

Posted

I hadn't been to Index for a couple months til monday and I was impressed with how many climbs were chalked up. Same thing happens in Ltown on the boulders (but usually the stripes are much more ridiculous, i.e. foot long stripes). We just scrub em off when we see em and if we see a party tick up a climb and then start to leave without cleaning their ticks we just do a friendly reminder/educate them on good tick mark etiquette.

Posted

It's a dry spell curse. I don't think that ticks are a big deal...it's something you have to deal with. Did Mikey Shaeffer rap Technicians of the Sacred and scrub all his ticks after the impressive redpoint??? Probably not, and I don't blame him. Honestly...I'm looking forward to having such an impossible to onsight, and hard to redpoint route cleaned, ticked, and ready to go:)

Posted

I've always thought these kinds of posts were rooted in...satire. Spiderman: I don't climb Upper Town Wall routes because I would have to hike and couldn't easily bring two cases of beer and my boombox.

 

But seriously, there are more marks than usual. I'm not opposed to the occasional little dot here or there but the bouldering runway stripes Sol mentions are gaining more traction, it seems. Think Huber brothers and duct tape gear placement indicators.

 

Ground up, onsight only! None of this hangdogging!

Posted

Its not just easy climbs that are getting trashed. I cleaned up all this flagging tape off route 1a on mt washington, a trail thats been used for at least 40 years with no difficulties.

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