[TR] Washington Pass and Wine Spires - East Butt SEWS, West RDG Pisano, NF of Burguny 9/23/2012

[Eric T]

Trip: Washington Pass and Wine Spires - East Butt SEWS, West RDG Pisano, NF of Burguny

 

Date: 9/23/2012

 

Trip Report:

On the 23rd of September Shaun Johnson and I climbed the East Buttress Direct of South Early Winter Spire. Then on the 24th and 25th Sunshine Summers and I climbed the West Ridge of Pisano and the North Face of Burgundy in the Wine Spires.

 

Shaun, Sunshine and I had been in Mazama Saturday the 22nd for the Fall Mountain Festival where Mark Allen and Blake Herrington gave great slide shows and SJ won some skis in the raffle and Sunshine won gloves and a headlamp. I walked away empty handed.

 

The East Buttress Direct, Grade IV 5.9 A1, came highly recommended to SJ and I and it was solid info. The feature is classic, in great position and has perfect Granite. I loved this route and found its place in Vol 1 of the Selected to be well deserved. The approach is mellow and then we down climbed the Southwest Couloir and walked out on the trail then down Hwy. 20 to our car at the hairpin. It was a very fun and relaxing Sunday for us. Thanks SJ.

 

Shaun left Sunday night turning his energy toward Vanishing Point with Jens H on Mt. Baring. SJ told me the crux pitch is a wildly exposed 5.12b over a thousand feet off the ground. I think that route is a bit out on my horizon….

 

Monday morning Sunshine and I started the approach to the Wine Spires on a better than expected trail. I was surprised to learn that the West Ridge of Pisano, Grade III 5.9-, had only been FA’ed in 2005. This route is great and I was pleased Sunshine picked it for us. This was our second time out and I had led the first time. I was taken off guard when Sunshine told me she wanted to lead but who am I to blow against the wind? I handed over the rack and we swung pitches to the summit with Sunshine leading the crux 5.9 pitch with poise and confidence. I was humbly impressed.

 

On Tuesday we had a casual morning and went up to do the North Face of Burgundy Spire, Grade III 5.8. Again Sunshine and I swung pitches and had a ball; especially on the last pitch which goes from 5.8 fingers to off width.

Thank you Sunshine.

 

We both want to go back for Rebel Yell and I’m really looking forward to that.

 

I hope to see everyone in Red Rocks this Rocktober!

 

Shaun with the East Buttress. (Above the tree)

 

 

Sj cruzing the bolt ladder on the East Buttress Direct of SEWS...

 

Sunshine...

 

Sunshine all smiles after leading the 5.9 crux on the West Ridge of Pisano.

 

 

 

 

 

Sunshine ponders the mental crux of the West Ridge...

 

Styling it...

 

A Goat at Burgundy Col.

 

Sunshine high on Burgundy Spire

 

 

 

 

 

Sunshine savioring the flavor on the summit pitch of Burgundy Spire...

Silver Star with the sun in the West...

 

Gear Notes:

Standard Rack, 60m rope.

Edited September 29, 2012 by Eric T

[OlympicMtnBoy]

Nice, looks like fun and not too smoky!

[Verticolorful]

Yeah dude!! The direct east butt was super fun! Way to step up to the plate Sunshine! I'm stoked that you (Eric) have been charging it do hard

[stevetimetravlr]

Rocktember! Great TR and photos.

 

[daniellesoncrant]

yes! great photos. do you happen to know if the creek is still running near the bivvy area beneath burgundy col?

[Eric T]

Hi Danielle,

 

Yes, we were able to fill up water at the flat area 800 feet or so beneath Burgundy Col. Where the trail goes flat and the great camp sites are, travel 300 meter NE on a trail. Sunshine actually filled the water both times for us so I never laid eyes on it. It took her five minutes to fill a gallon and the water was fine. Have fun up there!

 

Eric

Edited October 4, 2012 by Eric T

[curtveld]

I was surprised to learn that the West Ridge of Pisano, Grade III 5.9-, had only been FA’ed in 2005.

Unless I'm misreading something, the Beckey guide says the FA was Firey & McCarthy 1971 (presumably in boots).

 

BTW, I think Sunshine has the makings to become the PNWs first climbing super-model!

[Eric T]

Blake Herrington corrected me yesterday at Index.

Thank you for correcting my info here. I strive to be as accurate as possible and I'll do my homework better in the future.

 

True, she's cute. She's got an even better personality and a winning attitude. Sorry to talk about you like you're not in the room Sunshine...