[TR] NEWS and SEWS in a day - NW Corner and SW Rib 9/9/2012

[jayhawk]

Trip: NEWS and SEWS in a day - NW Corner and SW Rib

 

Date: 9/9/2012

 

Trip Report:

This combo has definitely been done before. But, man! It's fun to nail to summits for one approach!

 

Our original goal was to do the East Face of Lexington and then the NW Corner of NEWS. But we wussed out in the face of that much off-width climbing and opted for this combo. Plus, I'd already done the SW Rib before, so that would help us get through both routes more easily in a day.

 

I wish we would have started off on the SW Rib as we'd have been more likely to see some morning sun - we were both underdressed for the Fall-like weather in the shade on NEWS in the morning. But we wanted to do the harder route first, and the one that was new for both of us.

 

Matt heads for the big flake on pitch 3:

 

Top of the flake:

 

The corner:

 

Getting to the easier part:

 

Bear hug cracks on SW Rib:

 

Alpine heel hook!

 

Gear Notes:

Green alien to #4, doubles 0.75-2. Doubles were really nice on NEWS, and doubles of #3 would have been nice on corner pitch. #5 not necessary on SW Rib imo.

 

Approach Notes:

Two-for-one

[genepires]

chris martin and I did the same combo in august. such a great day. nice thing about doing sw rib second is that the crowds have already finished and you got it all to yourself. (hopefully)

 

Yeah I thought that having doubles of #3 and #4 in camalots was good to have. no #5 for either.

[lunger]

nice tour! both great routes.

 

apparently the "take two they're small" trend is in full force. on Friday, Casey and I did a parallel trip on those spires. we also started with NEWS, then jumped on SEWS. also would've liked to do the opposite order, but the rock was cold and we decided to start with the more moderate pitches on NEWS. hope to post a few pics later.