[TR] Le Petit Cheval - Spontaneity Arête 9/1/2012

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Trip: Le Petit Cheval - Spontaneity Arête

 

Date: 9/1/2012

 

Trip Report:

 

This weekend I opted to try for Spontanaity Arête. On my last attempt (also over Labor Day Weekend) we had trouble with rain and snow and bailed at the base of the final pitch. This time we had cold and wind but no hydrological issues and summited.

 

My partners for the trip were JP, DR, and AC. AC and I roped up together - she took the odd-numbered pitches and I the even. This was AC's second alpine rock lead (the first being the Tooth). We all agreed that the whole route is awesome with just one "weak" pitch (the 5th). We decided to do the optional seventh pitch - a glorious 5.7 3" crack. Our only complaint was that this pitch was too short!

 

Pictures follow.

 

AC scrambling on the approach:

 

Ascending the third(?) fixed line:

 

View up the first pitch. Just out of view is a nice hand crack with some 5.7 moves:

 

The 5.7 roof (pitch 2). I led this and found it to be one of the best and most fun:

 

This is where we started the third pitch. I believe we free solo'd part of the pitch before we got blocked by some exposed moves and roped up again:

 

AC on pitch 5. Pitch 6 is visible at the top of the screen. This was the only "lame" pitch (all 5.easy):

 

AC starts up the glorious 3" crack on the final pitch:

 

AC and DR join me on the final summit scramble. There is some spicy 4th class up here. JP opted to stay about 20 feet below on safer ground:

 

Mountain p0rn from the summit:

 

Victory!

 

AC all smiles as we rap the upper route and avoid the shitty gully as long as possible:

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Small to mid-size alpine rack up to 3"

 

Approach Notes:

Dry.

[jlapp]

I'm curious, on the second pitch with the roof I tried to go up and left over the top but didn't think I could do it so I went down and right underneath. Did you go just underneath the right side of the roof, center of photo, or what?

The hand crack lie back on the last pitch was my favorite too.

Jim

[KaskadskyjKozak]

I'm curious, on the second pitch with the roof I tried to go up and left over the top but didn't think I could do it so I went down and right underneath. Did you go just underneath the right side of the roof, center of photo, or what?

The hand crack lie back on the last pitch was my favorite too.

Jim

 

We went underneath the right side of the roof. I believe I saw that mentioned in a description of the route somewhere.

[Buckaroo]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

those are some sweet shots and it looks like a fun climb

 

when I first read the title I thought it was some virtually inaccessible place like Chamonix, LOLZ! But no this is right here in our own back yard, nice.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

when I first read the title I thought it was some virtually inaccessible place like Chamonix, LOLZ! But no this is right here in our own back yard, nice.

 

Hey Buckaroo - glad you liked the photos!

 

This climb was done first just a few years ago and the TR posted right here on cc.com. Since then it has become quite popular.

[OlegV]

I wish the WP was 4 hours closer. Nice job, KK!

[KaskadskyjKozak]

I wish the WP was 4 hours closer. Nice job, KK!

 

It is worth the drive if you stay a few days. Plus you can car camp and enjoy the adult beverage of choice along with grilled brats/burgers/etc. after each day's effort.

 

[matt_warfield]

I got the scoop on this route in 2004 on my honeymoon from some dude named Mark Allen, who suggested it as an alternative to other popular moderate routes in WA Pass area. It turns out he knew what he was talking about since he knew about the FA but I dragged my wife up Liberty Bell instead.

 

It was the third wife whom I thought would enjoy a rock climbing adventure as a honeymoon.

 

I am currently single.

Edited September 4, 2012 by matt_warfield