Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Trip: Squire Creek Wall - Oso Rodeo

 

Date: 8/28/2012

 

Trip Report:

We are trying again for the first one-day ascent of this 20-pitch route. Now I am honored to climb with chucK, whose time in the mountains is so limited in recent years. The summer days are still long enough. With a declining weather forecast I jump at the chance to climb in cool temperatures with a strong partner.

 

We leave town at 6:00am, the trailhead at 8:00, and this time I get a photo of the big log that has fallen over the Slab Daddy approach trail, near the top of the woods.

 

2622.jpg

 

Getting to the base of the route at 9:00am seems like a good start. This is what you're looking for at the base, a nice dry watercourse!

 

2624.jpg

 

This shows the route up to the sky. I leave the bulky camera at the base, so there are no more photos. We turn around at the top at 6:40pm. chucK says, "It's a good route", and we rappel leaving a bottle of water on the U-shaped ledge. We reach the forest at dark at 8:30pm and descend by lamplight.

 

2627.jpg

 

 

Gear Notes:

There is a place for a 4" cam on the first pitch, but not all parties will need it.

  • Replies 2
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted (edited)

I dropped an iodine pill in that bottle of water when we left it. So if you find the bottle and the water looks brown, be assured that it is a nice sterile, dead, chemical brown.

 

The route is 20 pitches of fun, and you can stop and rap any time if you happen to lose the stoke. I hit the figurative wall on pitch 18, but was (barely) able to suck it up and complete my on point duties and get the rope up 19, a cool pitch but with an intimidating start (or maybe it was my frame of mind).

 

Other highlights that come to mind:

p1: easy cracks to get the blood flowing then some wavy slabs with a short balancy crux.

 

p10: Very smooth start, but frictiony and not too steep. Trust your feet exam.

 

p11: cracks! sweet.

 

p12: steep but enough edges to make it fun and sustained

 

p15: The "yellow wall" highly featured fun slab.

 

p16: superfun finger crack traverse.

 

Route info can be found here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1044503

 

Thanks Otto!

 

 

Edited by chucK

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...