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Craggin' Classic - Smith Rock, 9/14-16


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Craggin' Classic: Crimpfest

September 14th - 16th

 

Featuring the Reel Rock Film Tour and the Camp Technical Equipment Ten Hour Crushfest!

 

Join the American Alpine Club at our first Craggin' Classic at Smith Rock, co-hosted with our friends at Redpoint Climbers Supply. We'll be premiering the 2012 Reel Rock Film and enjoying meals sponsored by SRCFC and the Mazamas. Join us for the registration happy hour sponsored by Boreal on Friday evening.

 

Logan Carr and Boreal will give climbers a tour of some of the most historically significant climbs in the park on Saturday. We'll publish a list and schedule of those climbs for you to watch. Festival participants can give Boreal's new shoes and Logan will be leaving the rope up for you to give it a shot. You've seen the beta, so it should be easy...right?

 

CAMP USA equipment is also presenting the Ten Hour Crushfest The 2013 Smith Rock Crimpfest Comp. Compete with your partner in one of six categories (elite and rec men's, women's and co-ed) for prizes up to $700 in cash/$200 in gear! Sign up that weekend, but start looking for your partner now.

 

Schedule:

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Friday:

5 - 9 PM - Happy hour / Registration at The Depot

 

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Saturday:

7 AM - Breakfast sponsored by Solid Rock Climbers for Christ

 

~Logan Carr/Boreal Tour of the Park

 

8AM - First Ascent Climbing Guides' Clinics:

~ Rob on Crack: Trad Techniques and Training with The Piz

~ Paige Claassen: Sport Climbing for Women

~ Glenn Griscom: Aid Climbing technique and Self-Rescue

 

5-10PM: Dinner / Raffle and Auction / Reel Rock / Party! - Saturday Night at the Depot

 

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Sunday:

7 AM: Breakfast / Stewardship Day - Sunday morning

 

5AM - 3PM: CAMP USA Crushfest!

 

3:30 PM: Awards Ceremony

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Buy a festival pass here: http://www.brownpapertickets.com/event/267097

 

For more information and the complete schedule:

http://www.americanalpineclub.org/p/craggin-classic#smithrock

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Corresponding with Eddie Espinoza regarding this event, I've identified some interest in, and support for, an "exhibition" category for "Crippled-up Old-Farts". Dr. Mark Shipman, who has broken his neck twice (the first time he was so completely paralyzed that a month after the injury, he phoned a colleague to gleefully announce "Tom! I'm gonna be okay! I FARTED today!!!) and still climbs well into the 5.10 and WI5 ranges at age 66 has tentatively committed. Glen Frese, once arguably the premiere waterfall ice climber in the Pacific Northwest, paralyzed below the sternum since a bicycling accident in the mid-nineties is a maybe - Glen may be paralyzed below the chest, but he WALKS with the aid of two canes. I'm working on Dave Jaecks, who in his mid-seventies cruises 5.10 on two fused ankles. Steph Abegg has not yet replied to my invitation. Katie Kemble is a long-shot, but ya never know... I'm workin' on it...

If you are - or anyone you know is - one of these "miracle recoveries", please join us in an inspirational celebration of the benefits of the mountaineering lifestyle. PM me and/or respond to AAC-PNW to get in on the action.

 

-Haireball

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Athlete Profile: Rob Pizem - Learn crack climbing with The Piz at his clinic: Rob on Crack.

 

MM-Piz-Army-of-Darkness-2008-350w.jpg

 

http://www.camp-usa.com/from-the-field/athletes/rob-pizem.asp

 

Accomplishments:

- Arcturus 5.13+ Half Dome, Yosemite National Park (first free ascent)

- Army of Darkness 5.13+ Moab desert roof crack (first free ascent)

- Logical Progression 5.13 Copper Canyon, Mexico (first free ascent)

- Thunderbird 5.13 Zion National Park (first free ascent)

- Back to the Earth 5.13+ Mt. Evans, Colorado (first free ascent)

- West Side Story 5.12R Fisher Towers, Utah (first free ascent)

 

Sponsors: CAMP, Arcteryx, Scarpa, Sterling

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