[TR] Cashmere Mountain consolation - North Ridge 7/19/2012

[Le Piston]

Trip: Cashmere Mountain consolation - North Ridge

 

Date: 7/19/2012

 

Trip Report:

My four day climbing trip into the Southern Pickets being foiled, my friend Rod and I wanted to climb something in a day, given the narrow weather window. He had not yet climbed Cashmere (I had just done it June 30th) so up we went. My body wasn't fully recovered from the previous day's 10 miles bushwhacking, but we made good time up the Eightmile Creek trail. It was hot going and the bugs were out in force, but the trail is in excellent shape and the expanding views helped. Last month I was able to cut crosscountry on snow from Little Caroline Lake (thus avoiding going up to Windy Pass) but most of the snow is gone, so up to Windy Pass we went. This adds distance to the approach, but also great views...especially Glacier Peak. We arrived at the saddle (about 8000 feet) and took a break. We got onto the North face and traversed on easy ground and two snow patches to the North ridge. The snowpatches are a bit runout, but the snow was soft and easy to manage. Once on the North Ridge, class 3 terrain takes you right up to the summit. There were swarms of lady bugs and flying ants, so we only stayed long enough for traditional Ritter Sport summit shots and a few pictures. Cashmere makes for a long, but scenic day climb of 17 miles round-trip...it wasn't Degenhardt and the Chopping Block, but a nice consolation.

 

Gear Notes:

Took ice axe, crampons, and helmet. Only used the helmet because of some loose rock on the north ridge.

 

Approach Notes:

Lots of ravenous flies and skeeters. Right now there are plenty of little creeks for water along the trail. The trail is in great shape with a few muddy spots.

[rat]

nice.

 

cashmere also has little-known technical route up the central rib of the east south face (fa gordon briody and partner). marko and i repeated it recently and found 2 pitches of 5.9ish crack climbing (perhaps easier to the right, lots of variations possible) leading from the lowest point of the face to the crest of the rib. a couple long simul-sections of 4th-low 5th then lead almost directly to the summit. it has suprisingly good rock but will probably never become popular.

Edited July 24, 2012 by rat

[Z-Man]

Can you point out where on the EF this route is?

 

 

I've heard of some technical climbs on the South Face, and found some old climbing gear on it once, but never the EF.

 

 

North Face of East Cashmere has some potential. ~900 feet high.

 

[rat]

it was the south face. my mistake. the route we climbed started with a left trending crack from the base of the major rib in the center-right of your photo.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

 

Would this be a reasonable trip to bring a (tough, experienced-hiker) kid on? Any exposed sections that a short rope might be warranted?

[rob]

There is an easy scramble up to the summit block that might warrant a short rope on a kid, depending on his (and your!) comfort level. Long hike to do in a day for little legs, like 16 miles round trip?

[KaskadskyjKozak]

There is an easy scramble up to the summit block that might warrant a short rope on a kid, depending on his (and your!) comfort level. Long hike to do in a day for little legs, like 16 miles round trip?

 

I would do it as an overnighter - probably September time frame

 

[Smoots]

There are nice spots to camp just below Windy Pass that get you close to Cashmere. I climbed it on Saturday as a 10hr day trip, but that could be hard for a kid. The traverse across the North face to the North ridge route that is described in this TR is the least exposed approach. Loose rock poses a bit of a hazard, so I'd recommend helmets. The West ridge route has more sustained exposure, but better rock quality. You may want to belay your kid for the final summit block scramble.

Edited July 24, 2012 by Smoots

[Le Piston]

There is a bench about 7000-7200 feet with level tent spots and running water (at least last week) east of Windy Pass which would make a great camp spot. I walked by it in June and wished I had stayed there instead of by Little Caroline Lake.